Itineraries experience.

Man was present on Capri since Prehistoric times. The first colonists were probably the Greek, Cumaens, who left traces of their civilization in the ruins of town walls and the Phoenician steps. But, despite its great strategic importance it was not until 29BC that Capri was "discovered" by the Romans. Octavian, later the first Emperor, Augustus, fell in love with the island and exchanged Ischia for it with the State of Naples. He often stayed here and just before his death in 14AD came with Tiberius to rest on the island which he called "the island of sweet idleness". Tiberius, who succeeded Augustus, was equally enchanted with Capri and lived the last ten years of his life here, in self imposed exile.

Augustus and Tiberius built not only twelve magnificent villas on the island but also carried out great engineering projects, constructing, cisterns, roads, lighthouses and wharves. After the death of Tiberius in 37AD, all these were gradually abandoned, neglected, ransacked and left to the ravages of the winds and the weather. Today little remains of the grandeur of the era of Augustus and Tiberius. This itinerary explores three fascinating villas which give an insight into the amazing architectural, engineering and artistic achievements of this seminal period in Ancient Roman history: the Villa a Mare and the Bagni Tiberio, the Villa Jovis, and the Villa Damecuta.

Situated on the Northern shore, west of Marina Grande, the Villa a Mare (sometimes referred to as "Palazzo a Mare", but Augustus would never have termed it such) was built by Augustus and modified by Tiberius. It was said to be Augustus' favourite seaside residence and covered an area of 850metres along the shoreline. A series of terraces dropped down to the sea, supporting a residential quarter, an exedra, loggia, baths, and nymphaeums. Steps led to a landing place and to different tanks in which fresh water and sea fish were bred. Inland, large cisterns for collecting rainwater supplied the needs of the villa. Only ruins of this grand residence remain: some of Tiberius' baths, small stretches of wall and terracing. Damage, the removal of ancient marble and artworks in the 18th and 19th centuries and the levelling of the area to create a parade ground in the 19th century have obliterated most of this ancient villa complex.

Despite the ravages of time, misuse and appropriation of its treasures, more has been preserved at the Villa Jovis. Situated on the western promontory of the island, Monte Tiberio, standing on the very edge of the cliffs which run sheer down to the sea and dominating the Bocche di Capri channel, the villa is on the site of a fortress. There are magnificent views of the island and of the Gulf of Naples and Salerno.

The emperor's palazzo which have been excavated extend over 7000metres but the villa and its grounds probably covered a larger area. Building of this amazing complex was begun under Augustus and continued by Tiberius, Although only substructures survive, one cannot but wonder at the building achievement here - the edifice exemplifies the tremendous architectural and engineering skills of the Romans. Rock was cut back and levelled, huge undercrofting constructed with great concrete barrel vaults, materials were transported up steep tracks to the 334 metre high site. As the ancient visitor approached, along a herringbone paved road to the west, he would have been overawed by the imposing building towering 20metres above.

At the centre of the complex was the great cistern building around which other sectors were constructed. The cisterns collected rainwater for drinking but also to service the three baths located to the south, the frigidarium, tepidarium and caldidarium, the temperature of which was regulated by furnaces. On the eastern side were the reception areas and on the northern side, separate from all other rooms, were the imperial quarters, leading to a 92metre long loggia, with panoramic views, all richly ornamented with marble, mosaics and statues.

Tiberius was happiest away from Rome and in AD26 departed to spend much of the end of his reign on Capri. In these last years he brooded over the death of his son Drusus and became increasingly psychotic. Haunted by the spectre of death, he often consulted his astrologer, Thrasyllus and built for him an observatory the massive foundations of which are sited to the West of the main block. Legend has it that Tiberius indulged in sexual perversity and great cruelty at this time. At the edge of the cliff to the south there is a precipice known as "Salto di Tiberio'. From here it is said Tiberius forced unsatisfactory servants and unwelcome guests to leap to their death. A short distance from here are the remains of a lighthouse, used to receive and send messages and maintain contact with the mainland. It is rumoured to have collapsed a few days before the paranoid emperor's death.

Occupying an equally panoramic and strategic position the Villa Damecuta is on the opposite side of the island, on Anacapri. The ruins of the villa are sited in an archaeological park on a western point above Punta dell'Arcera and the Grotta Azurra. Very little remains of what is thought to have been an even larger villa complex than that of Jovis, Judging by the finds that have been uncovered and the existence of the finest Greek marble columns, it is probable that the villa was richly adorned. It may have extended down the hillside to Gradola, its wharf, and have included the Grotta Azurra Nymphaeum. The site plan seems to follow that of the typical Roman Seaside villa, with rooms opening off a long colonnade overlooking the sea. This loggia was 80metres long with a panoramic portico. This was a summer retreat. The air is less oppressive here, fanned by westerly winds. Here the troubled Tiberius may well have spent the hottest days, cooled by the breeze, looking out over the Gulf of Naples, away from the everlasting intrigue of Rome.