The Pizzolungo walk
Capri is a walker's paradise. One of the island's most rewarding walks is, without doubt, the "Pizzolungo", itinerary, linking the Tragara viewpoint with the Natural Arch. The route can be followed in either direction, although the fall of the land makes departure from the Natural Arch advisable.
From the Piazzetta, via the picturesque lanes which characterise the historic center of Capri, walkers head towards the Natural Arch. Just before arriving, a brief detour leads to the Piazzetta delle Noci: a rocky terrace from where stunning views of the sea can be admired. Punta Campanella, the extreme point of the Sorrentine Peninsula, has never been so close.
Back on the path which leads to the Natural Arch, in just a few minutes walkers find themselves before the awesome rock formation, the result of erosive forces and a succession of landslides. It is likely that the archway once served as entrance to a large cave preceding the smaller cavern still visible in the rock face behind the arch. The composition of rock, Mediterranean shrub and the intense blue sea, framed by the arch, is a quite unforgettable sight.
Descending a long flight of steps, walkers some to the Grotta di Matermania. Here, the natural cave was embellished with artefacts dating back to the Roman period. The cave was once divided in two distinct areas, complete with vaulted ceiling. Traces of ancient wall paintings and glass mosaic can still be seen. Although legend has it that the Grotta di Matermania was the site where the cult of Mater Cibele was worshipped, in reality it was just one of the many nymphaeums present on the island of Capri.
At the end of a seemingly interminable descent (hence the advice to start at the Natural Arch and not from Tragara!), the Pizzolungo walk begins. The Pizzolungo was once the principal pathway skirting the southern coast of the island. From here, through a landscape made up of rock, lush vegetation, and sea, the views are quite spectacular.
All of a sudden, the majestic profile of Villa Malaparte appears. This striking edifice, constructed on a spur of rock which stretches out in to the sea, was built to the designs of one of the most important exponents of Italian Rationalist Architecture, Adalberto Libera, for the famous journalist and novelist, Curzio Malaparte. Thus, "House like me" was built, comprised of essential volumes and a dramatic flight of steps leading up to a vast solarium terrace. The stark geometric forms are given additional impact by the intense red used to decorate the exterior. A rare example of the integration of modern architecture within a natural landscape, the essential, minimalist interiors have been given windows as large as to seem to allow the sea to enter the building. From 1936 onwards, Villa Malaparte was the chosen residence of politicians, exiles, literary figures, actors, and artists originating from every corner of the globe. After the death of Curzio Malaparte, and according to his wishes, the villa became the seat of a foundation for the artistic and cultural development of the people of China. Today the villa is owned by the heirs of the writer and is no longer open to the public.
The latter part of the Pizzolungo walk brings visitors to a small terrace overlooking the legendary Faraglioni: three gigantic sea stacks which have become the symbol of Capri. Each rock has been given a name: "Stella", "Faraglione di mezzo", and "Scopolo". The Faraglione lying furthest out to sea, Scopolo, is inhabited by the Blue Lizard, reptile the unique color of which has been attributed to a mutation following the separation of the rock from the land.
Here the Pizzolungo comes to an end. Next to the Tragara terrace, a path leads to the Faraglioni and one of the most stunning places where to take a dip in the sea.
