Medieval villages, artistic masterpieces, Lake Trasimeno, untainted landscapes, and jazz festivals
Perugia, a city in which ancient history and the contemporary world meet in an intriguing synthesis of art, culture, and tradition. A city home to a magnificent cathedral, the Fontana Maggiore, the National Gallery of Umbria, housed within the Palazzo dei Priori, and with a stunning collection of artworks by artists such as Beato Angelico, Pinturicchio, Piero della Francesca, Perugino; but also host city of the Umbria Jazz festival, a summer music review which has seen performances by the likes of Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz, Keith Jarret, and Sting. In October, the streets are filled with the scents of "Eurochocolate", an annual appointment with this most delectable of foodstuffs which includes shows, tastings, product launches, and conferences. The Città della Domenica is a historic fun park, and the perfect choice for a family outing.
Travelling along the Via Cortonese, within minutes we come to Lake Trasimeno. The lake, the largest in central Italy, is a veritable natural oasis, and a confirmed favourite amongst birdwatchers. This immense pool of water provides the perfect natural habitat for herons, wild ducks, coots, and birds of prey. On the shores of Lake Trasimeno lies the town of Passignano, from where a ferry transports visitors across the waters to the Isola Maggiore, an island situated right in the middle of the lake and home to an enchanting little village once inhabited by fishermen and their families.
In the immediate vicinity of Lake Trasimeno we find Tuoro, site of historic battle of 217 B.C. fought between the Romans and the Carthaginans. In the Battle of Trasimeno the Roman forces led by Caio Flaminio suffered a devastating defeat at the hands of Hannibal.
Continuing around the lake, we arrive in Castiglione del Lago, on the western side of the basin. Such is the charm of this picturesque lake-side town, Castiglione has been included in the list of Italy's most attractive towns and villages. Ancient walls protect the historic center which is dominated by the castle: an impressive stronghold built during the reign of Federico II of Svevia. During the summer season, Castiglione del Lago transforms in venue for a series of important cultural and artistic events.
Travelling onwards towards the South, skirting the boundary with Tuscany, we come to Città della Pieve. This is where, in 1450, the great artist Pietro Vannucci, better known as Il Perugino, was born. Many of his masterpieces are conserved in the Churches of S. Maria dei Servi and S. Antonio Abate, in the Oratory of S.Maria dei Bianchi and in the town's Cathedral. The center of the town, protected by an old perimeter wall dating back to the 14th century, has provided the set for numerous films and popular television serials.
The town of Monteleone di Orvieto conserves an urban plan dating back to the middle ages, and a great deal of the town's medieval architecture has, miraculously, remained almost unaltered by the passage of time. To the south of the town, there is a belvedere from where to enjoy a spectacular view of the hillside of Orvieto. The Collegiate church of S. Pietro and S. Paolo is well worth a visit.
Whilst driving along the roads leading through the Umbrian countryside, the profile of Orvieto appears, a city built on great spurs of rock from where it dominates the whole valley. Before entering the city, a brief detour leads us to the Badia, a 4th century abbey complete with porticoes, cloisters, and bell towers, now transformed in elegant historic residence.
The center of the city of Orvieto gravitates around its magnificent Cathedral, an undisputed masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The façade is embellished with statues, sculptures, and an immense rose window. Inside the cathedral, one can admire frescoes by Luca Signorelli and Beato Angelico. The climb to the top of the Torre del Moro is rewarded by a breathtaking view which, on clear days, extends as far as Mount Amiata.
Much of the magic of Orvieto is hidden underground. Directly beneath the city, there is a fascinating network of passageways and cisterns, including the Well of San Patrizio, commissioned by Pope Clemente VII and realised by Antonio da Sangallo. This enormous well drops down some 62meters beneath the surface and is traversed by two spiral stairways lit by 72 internal windows. Before leaving Orvieto, we take time for a tour of the medieval quarter of the city with its narrow streets and alleyways and its piazzas lined with charming little shops and artists' workshops.
During the winter, Orvieto becomes the seat of Umbria Jazz Winter, a festival which sees the streets of the city animated by concerts, jazz dinners, and musical celebrations to welcome in the new year.
