Emilia Romagna The Via Emilia

This itinerary explores the area of Emilia Romagna which lies either side of the ancient Roman road, the Via Emilia, between Parma and Piacenza. The tour visits the towns and villages of both the plains of the river Po and the foothills of the Appenines; centres rich in art and history and famed for their gastronomic delights.

You begin, 20 kilometres west of Parma, at Fontanellato. The town is built around the moated and fortified house of the Sanvitale family, one of the region's most beautiful castles. Begun in the 1200s and completed in the 1400s the castle now houses many art treasures, including paintings, furniture and a cycle of mythological frescoes by Parmigiano. Situated just outside the medieval historic centre is the Beata Vergine del Rosario Sanctuary with its extensively restored 17th century Neo-Baroque façade and statues.

Another castle, in San Secondo Parmese is to the north east of Fontanellato. The "Rocca" here was home to the Counts Rossi. Although severely damaged by an earthquake in 1983, the castle still provides a setting for medieval re-enactments and an annual Palio. You are now in the homeland of the delicious Spalla Cotta, which, of course, should be accompanied by Fontana wine.

A castle of a very different sort is to be found at Colorno. An imitation of the palace of Versailles, the "Reggia", was built on the site of a former castle and designed by the French Architect, Ennemond Alexandre Petitot. This was the summer residence of the Farnese Dukes. When the French occupied the Duchy of Parma in 1807 the palace became a favourite home of Napoleon's second wife, Marie Louise. When Napoleon was defeated Marie Louise came here, as Duchess of Parma. The beautiful grounds, including an English style garden, which Marie Louise created, have recently been restored, after having suffered great damage in World War 2.

This area of the Po valley is a real heaven for gourmets, particularly lovers of cold meats. The foggy lowland, known as "La Bassa", provides the optimum conditions for the production of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and culatello di Zibello - known as the "kings of cheese and ham". "Culatello" is made from the top round of the pig's leg, then cured and aged. In Zibello, there is a Museum of Countrylife, which gives an interesting insight into this region.

West of Zibello, along the River Po, you come to Polesine Parmese. The town is built on a "polesine"- a small island in the Po, which has become attached to the shore. Polesine is renowned for its gastronomic delicacies - not only "culatello" and Parmigiano Reggiano but also river fish. In July, thousands gather here for the annual "Culatello" festival. These towns along the river are linked by some of the many bicycle paths which make the plains of Emilia Romagna so popular with cyclists.

Where Polesine pays annual homage to "culatello", Soragna has an entire museum devoted to its famous product - Parmigiano Reggiano, "the Majestic". The museum is in the magnificent, perfectly preserved castle, which was once the residence of the Mell-Lupi family.

Returning to Via Emilia, you come to Fidenza, so called in 1927 after its Roman name Fidentia. Fidenza lies on the medieval pilgrimage route, Via Francigena, which linked Canterbury and Rome. In front of the town's cathedral is the world's first road sign - a statue of St. Simon Peter points to Rome, with a plaque reading "I show you the way to Rome". The 12th century cathedral is one of the finest, and best preserved, Lombard-Romanesque churches.

You come upon a complete contrast in style now, as you travel south to Salsomaggiore Terme, which is built in the opulent Art Nouveau, Italian Liberty Style. This town has been famous throughout Europe for its natural salty waters since their therapeutic powers were first realised in the time of Marie Louise's Duchy. The water comes direct from artesian wells at a temperature of 16C and has a salt density three times that of the Dead Sea. Art Nouveau architecture is everywhere here. The most famous of the Spa buildings is the Berzieri, built in 1923. The Miss Italia contest is one of several events hosted by the town each year. Two smaller towns nearby, Salsominere and Tabiano Bagni, have their own version of Salsomaggiore - the waters of Tabiano being particularly high in sulpha.

The route takes you back to medieval times now as you travel to Vigoleno. Here you find a castle and hamlet which remain almost intact in their original form. Together, the castle and dwellings formed a whole defensive system. Many times destroyed, it is today as it was in 1389. The formidable "rivellino" with a quadrangular entrance tower is a rare example of a fortified entrance. There is also a magnificent 13th century Romanesque church, which was restored in 1963.

Nearby is Castell'Aquato, another picturesque hillside town. The castle rises above the village which spills down the hill below. Here also there is a Romanesque church, with 12th century carved capitals and sculptures. The town was the perfect setting for the film "Ladyhawke" which starred Michelle Pfeiffer. Here you can sample another sausage - Coppa Piacentina, a local speciality made from pig's head.

You travel some 30 kilometres west now to reach the valleys of the Tidone and the Trebbia, south of Piacenza. This diverse land at the base of the Appenines is one of narrow valleys, rich in history and wild life. Rivalta Trebbia is an ancient fortified town, reputed to have been the site of a battle between Hannibal and the Romans. The town was built originally built by the Romans to defend its strategic position guarding the road to the sea. The castle, which was destroyed in the Middle Ages, but rebuilt in the 15th century as a sumptuous residence, is one of the most important in the area. The Castle is open to the public at weekends between March and November.

Finally, this varied tour ends in the Val Tidone, at Pianello Val Tidone. Pianello lying at the confluence of the rivers Tidone and Chiarone, has been settled since Neolithic times. A few kilometres from Pianello Val Tidone the mighty defensive bulwark of the Rocca d'Oligisio rises up amongst the trees. This castle, which guards the rivers' confluence, is one of the most important fortified complexes in Italy. Originally built in the 9th century, Oligisio was, from the 14th century, the seat of the powerful Dal Verme. Many battles were fought here over the centuries right up to modern times, when the castle was used by the 1st Brigade of the Partisans in World War 2.