Cilento, land inhabited by the heroes of Virgilio's epic tale, the Aeneid
In this itinerary you travel south of the Sorrento Peninsular to the wilder and wetter shores of the Cilento, a mountainous area in Campania's southeast corner. Much of this once deserted coastline now hosts tourists but there are still extensive tracts of wild seascape without road or habitation.
The starting point of the tour has a history typical of the towns and villages of this coast. Under constant attack from the sea, the inhabitants of the Roman settlement of Ercula sought safety on the higher ground of a promontory. "The town on the hill","Akropolis", which became Agropoli was continually refortified. Despite its turbulent past, (attacks, pillaging and occupation) there are still vestiges of Byzantine and even pre-Byzantine building. The 16th century castle stands on top of the promontory on Byzantine foundations - it has a triangular plan, three circular towers and a moat. The old walled town around it is reached by an ancient flight of steps, flanked by a wall decorated with merlons. The steps, the "Scaloni" lead you through the 7th century gate. Exploring the narrow streets, you can visit the 16thcentury church of Santa Maria di Costantinopoli.
As you enter the Cilento National Park, on the SS267 from Agropoli you see Castellabate, high up on a hill. This beautifully preserved maze of alleyways, steps and tiny piazzas has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Presiding over the town, the 12th century castle of Abbot Constabillis looks down over the sweep of the bay and the ports of Santa Maria and San Marco di Castellabate. These pretty villages have white sandy beaches and still active fishing fleets.
To the southwest of Castellabate lies the peaceful oasis of the Punta Licosa - off shore from which is one of the two Maritime Wildlife Reserves of the Cilento Park. Travel by boat, or overland, pass inlets and rocky beaches to reach the legendary Licosa Island with its lighthouse. Inland from Punta Licosa, the mountains rise to the highest point on the peninsular - Monte Stella. The views are stunning from the ridge. The beautiful Sanctuary Stella Maris is on the southern end of the peak. Descending once more, southwards, to the coast, you come to Pollica. Here in the Friary of San Francesco has a wonderful cloister and the well kept castle of the Capano Princes is worth visiting.
Just six kilometres further and you reach the charming town of Acciaroli. First mentioned in 1116 when it was called Aczarulo - meaning absence of sea storms. Set amidst verdant hills' beside a beautiful beach, the town has a lovely church and Saracen towers. It is no wonder that a weary Hemingway found the inspiration to continue his last work "The Old Man and the Sea" after staying here.
Velia and Castellamare are the next major tourist destinations on the road as it follows the rocky coastline through Pioppi. Pioppi is an attractive little town with two important Palazzi, a maritime museum and a lovely promenade. Once the ancient settlement, Elea, founded by Phoenicians and known by the Greeks as Hyele, Velia was one of the most important cities and philosophical centres in the Cilento. Walls, towers and the "Porta Rosa"(one of the oldest extant gateways) survive from Roman times. Besides using the local limestone, the Romans, also employed bricks which were made to a design only found here. The site of the acropolis, once a promontory was renamed Castellamare in the middle ages.
Leaving Velia and Castellamare behind travel the scenic route, now the 447, until you come upon Pisciotta, set amongst the mountains, 170 metres above sea level. The medieval alleyways of this unspoilt town are pedestrianised and there are many historically important buildings. Pisciotta is famous for its olive oil, some of which comes from century old trees which line the path to Marina di Pisciotta. Amongst the catch of the fisherman are the anchovies used for the local speciality alici di menaica.
Next is the popular resort of Palinuro, famous for its beautiful sands, and many caves. In Virgil's story Aeneas' helmsman, Palinurus, fell overboard here and gave this place its name. The nearby Cape Palinuro has in turn given its name to the deep-yellow flowered Palinuro Primrose found in the Cilento.
You again follow the rocky coastline to Marina di Camerota, a lively fishing harbour where the bars are the centre of village life. With its beautiful scenery, the port is very popular in July and August. Inland, on a plateau, is the wonderful medieval Camerota with its centro storico. There are marvellous views of Monte Bulgheria from here. Despite being near to the touristy marina, traditions are still upheld here, including the making of pottery by century old methods.
The remotest area of the Cilento now lies ahead, the Punta degli Infreschi, still largely accessible only from the sea. San Giovanni a Piro is the main point of departure for treks into this wilderness. Amongst these expeditions is the walk to the colossal rock wall of Bulgheria, 1225metres, one of the most spectacular rock walls in the South. The town of San Giovanni a Piro itself developed in the 10th century when Saracens destroyed nearby Policastro. Around 990AD monks from Greece founded the abbey here.
From San Giovanni a Piro, ending this tour of a breathtaking coastline, you join the main SS18 road to Sapri. Located on an inlet of the Gulf of Policastro, with a mild climate and a clear sea (Blue Flag), Sapri has been a popular holiday destination since Roman times. The resort is famous in Italian History as the launching point for Carlo Piscane's failed attempt to oust Italy's Bourbon rulers in 1857. A statue of Piscane, looking out to sea, commemorates this event.
