Liguria suggested itineraries

Leaving behind the parks and splendid villas of Genoa Nervi take the old Roman, Aurelia Road to Portofino. Ahead of you is one of the most famous itineraries in Italy. The route winds through dense greenery, across rocky promontories, past little villages. The first stop is the resort of Bogliasco with its brightly coloured dwellings. In the Piazza, which overlooks the black sandy beach you will find the 18th century church of the Natività di Maria. High on the hill above stands a castle, built to protect the town from constant raids from the sea.

Further down the coast, and a short distance from the Roman road is the village of Pieve Ligure, not far from which is the famous Oratory of St, Anthony Abbot. With its frescos, triptych by Pier Francesco Sacchi and Baroque processional crosses by Anton Maria Maragliano the oratory is the unusual venue for modern concerts.

The Aurelia Road leads on to Recco which is not a typical Ligurian town. Having been extensively bombed in 1944, it was almost entirely rebuilt. From the new and fashionable "Boulevard Italia" you can watch the many yachts which visit the harbour. Known as Liguria's "gastronomic capital", Recco is famous for its foccacia filled with cheese. There is even a foccacia festival held here.

In Camogli, your next stop, another unusual festival is held - a fish festival which is a great attraction. Fish, cooked in great pans is given to those who look on. The town is bound to the sea. The inhabitants depended upon fishing and boat building. This bond is celebrated in the Maritime Museum here. Despite increasing tourism the town seems unchanged. Take a boat out into the harbour, look back to see the town which appears like a fantastic stage set - a wall of brightly coloured, tightly packed houses, dotted by a hundred windows and dominated by the complex of the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta. Back on land, climb upwards from the Basilica, and the castle opposite it, up to the San Prospero Monastery. The Benedictine monastery is famous not only because of its library but also for the healing ointment which the monks make.

Take time to visit another, much older, religious building, the San Fruttuoso Abbey. The Abbey, and the little fishing hamlet nearby are only accessible on foot or by sea. Both the village, which dates from 2nd or 3rd century AD and the 8th century abbey are protected by a conservation order. In 1954 a statue of Cristo degli Abissi, the divers' Saint was placed 17metres down in the sea near here.

The hillsides above Camogli abound with flowers and herbs, rosemary, thyme and rue (rutacea) and it may be that rue, the most important of herbs in medieval times gave the village of Ruta above Camogli its name. This peaceful little place provided Nietzsche with the ideal environment for developing his philosophy.

Continuing down the coast along the beautiful Tigullio Gulf you leave the Aurelia to visit Santa Margherita, a famous resort for many years. There are tree lined boulevards and large hotels, craft shops, colourful houses beside a lively harbour. Above the town Galeazzo Alessi built an imposing villa in 1560 which today houses many fine works of art.

The Cervara Abbey lies just off your route to Portofino. First built in 1361 this famous complex became a stronghold. Many prominent people stayed as guests, or prisoners, here and the Abbey owned famous works of art, including Gerard David's polyptych. However after the French conquest the abbey was suppressed and the artwork sold. Today the abbey, which has been decreed to be a National Monument, is in private hands. Prestigious celebrations, conferences, exhibitions and concerts are held here.

Before reaching Portofino you come upon the beautiful little bay in which Parragi is set. This former fishing hamlet nestles beside beautiful clear waters, ideal for diving, and in which red coral is found.

And finally to finish, two contrasting Italys - the exclusive, ritzy, glitzy playground of the rich that is Portofino and the Nature Park, a promontory with one of Italy's most fabulously beautiful stretches of coastline - the Monte di Portofino Park. Portofino, "Portus Delphini" , the "Port of the Dolphins' was mentioned by Pliny in the 1st century AD. The town has been described as "one of the most beautiful spots on earth". Colourful dwellings and opulent hotels stretch round the small cove which is sheltered by olive groves and the mountains to the northwest. On the hillside above, the Brown Castle and St. George's Castle look down upon the Churches of St. George and San Martino. Set in this backdrop is the harbour, brim full with luxurious vessels.

The itinerary has taken you along a wonderful coast, some of which will forever be preserved from the intervention of man in the Monte di Portofino Nature Park, (accessible from amongst other points from Portofino, Recco, Camogli). From the sea or on the land the views here are stunning. It is not only the dramatic cliffs and coves which are protected but also the fauna and flora. There are 700 different species of plant, due to the complex geology. As well as being home to many breeding birds, the promontory is also on a major bird migration route. Beech martens, red squirrel and fox, and porcupine make this reserve their home. Virtually every form of Mediterranean aquatic life can be found in the recently added Marine Reserve.