Natural parks, ancient abbeys, and dramatically beautiful mountains
On leaving Turin you enter the Susa valley. The SS25 winds through the entire valley up into the mountains. You come to the St Antonio di Ranverso Monastery and hospital after having driven for about 15 kilometres. The church was founded in 1186 and enlarged in the 13th and 14th centuries. Frescos by Giacomo Jaquerio and a polyptic by Defendente Ferrari were added during redecoration in the 15thcentury.
The next stop is the important town of Avigliana, which was inhabited by the Celts as early as the 6th century B.C. The town was of strategic importance on the main route to France. During the Roman Empire and Middle Ages. Many Medieval buildings are preserved in the historic centre, the "Borgo". Of particular note is the 13th century Casa della Porta Ferrata with its original door and carved stone capitals. The façade and rear portico, with painted arches and ornate capitals, of the Palazzo del Vescovo, or Casa Senore are as they were when the edifice was built in the 14th century.
At the base of Mount Pirchiriano is the Avigliana Lakes Nature Reserve. There are many lovely walks beside the shore of the lakes, Lake Grande and Lake Piccolo, and through the surrounding countryside. Umberto Eco's best seller, In the Name of the Rose was inspired by the Sacred Abbey of San Michele above, on the summit of Mount Pirchiriano.
The Lower Susa valley is dominated by the Abbey, which is 962 metres above sea level. The Abbey, which is Benedictine, was founded before 1000 and reached the height of its power in the early 12thcentury. The zodiac portal at the entrance was sculpted by Nicola in the 12th century and is thought to be the oldest surviving Romanesque zodiac cycle in Italy. Stand on the terrace outside the church and take in the awe-inspiring view over the whole valley and the mountains. After returning to the SS25 stop to visit the Chianocco Gorge, formed in the ice age. Many routes can be taken along paths amidst the holm oak woods from here.
Susa lies in the heart of the valley 10 kilometres further on. Susa was called the "key to Italy" because of its position at the meeting of the roads from Savoia and Delfinate. This ancient town has reminders of its Roman past in, for example the Augustus Arch (9-8 B.C.) the Terme Graziane and the Arena. St Francis journey in 1213-1214 is commemorated in the 13th century Church of San Francesco, the first Franciscan building in Piedmont.
Leave the main road towards Venaus-Novalesa to visit the Abbey of Novalesa. The Abbey was almost completely rebuilt in the 18th century but the beautiful; Sant'Eldrado Chapel, with a 16thcentury apse and 12thcentury frescos, remains untouched. There is an amazing view as the road climbs on to a height of 2081 at Colle del Moncenisio in France. There is also a large, man-made lake, producing energy for France and Italy, around which paths lead off through the mountains.
If you drive into the Upper Susa valley, you come to the Gran Bosco Park, with its' thick forests of red and white pine. The fabled Franchi Way, on which Charlemagne sprung a surprise attack on Desidero, the Frank king is here. The Upper valley was the site of some of the venues in the 2006 Winter Olympics. One of these, on the SS24, is Bardonecchia, where the snowboarding event was held. This has become an all year round holiday resort, with up to date sports provision, all set amidst the spectacular scenery of the Alps.
