A journey through the mountainous land of Irpinia, a territory largely unknown to tourists where to discover places of great natural beauty and savour an infinite number of gastronomic delicacies.
Irpinia, the province of Avellino, is a magnificent display of ancient deciduous woods, rich pasture land, and tree covered hills, so much so that one might easily mistake this lush and fertile land for a mountainous valley of central Europe. Instead, we are in Campania, close to where the regions of Puglia and Molise meet.
The enchanting medieval town of Ospedaletto d'Alpinolo, is famous for the production of one of Irpinia's most loved gastronomic specialities. In fact, it is here that the scrumptious concoction of honey and nuts, known as "torrone" is made. Chewy or crunchy, covered with dark chocolate or glazed with lemon icing, the varieties of this delicacy are endless.
The pilgrims heading for the Sanctuary of the Montevergine, situated just a few kilometers from Ospadeletto, are frequently led to temptation and stop to purchase a bar or two of Torrone here. Of all the places of worship in Italy dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Sanctuary of Montevergine is the most visited. Earliest records of the sanctuary date back to 1126 when the first church was consecrated. Among the many things to see here, there is an exhibition of nativity scenes originating from every region of Italy and from various countries across the globe. Over the years, the collection, considered to be the most important of its kind in Italy, has become larger and larger and now fills some 9 exhibition rooms.
The area of Mercogliano is entirely surrounded by mountains: those of Partenio and Picentini. Testifying to the area's great wine making tradition, between Mercogliano and Atripalda, vast expanses of vineyards can be seen. Today, Irpinia's wine producers are responsible for some of Italy's finest Docg wines: Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi.
In order to reach Nusco, in high Irpinia, we travel through the Regional Park of the Picentini Mountains. Situated some 900 meters above sea level, Nusco has been described as "the balcony of Irpinia". On a clear day, from the terraces of its castle or the roads which skirt the town, visitors are treated to views which stretch out as far as the Vulture Massif, in Basilicata, the Terminio, the Matese and the Dauno Apennines.
Stunning views apart, Nusco is perhaps best known for the production of the "caciocavallo" cheese, obtained from the milk of the cows which are left to roam freely in the surrounding pasture lands. The round caciocavallo cheeses are left to season for at least three months, hanging in pairs over a beam. Characterised by a smooth, thin rind which thickens as it matures, the cheese itself is soft and pale yellow in colour. Mature caciocavallo cheese is often served with cold meats as a starter, accompanied by a glass of Greco di Tufo or Fiano di Avellino.
From Nusco, travelling along the Via Ofantina, we reach Montella, famous for its chestnuts. The cultivation of chestnuts in the area surrounding Montella has been traced back as far as the 6th century B.C. In 1996, the flavour-packed "Chestnut of Montella" was awarded I.G.P. status. The Christmas period is the ideal moment when to try the legendary "Castagna del Prete", chestnuts dried and toasted in their shells and subsequently re-hydrated with water.
Just a few kilometers from Montella lies Bagnoli Irpino, town situated right in the heart of the Regional Park of the Picentini Mountains. It is here, each October, that Irpinia's "Chestnut and Truffle fair" is held. The "tartufo nero", or black truffle, is a highly prized edible fungi found in the area and features in a great number of traditional local dishes. Travelling upwards and northbound towards Ariano Irpino, we pass through a succession of small towns and villages - Caposele, Lioni, Sant'Angelo dei Lombardi - all of which known for their age-old gastronomic traditions.
Rocca San Felice is a delightful little town, inhabited by a population of no more than a thousand, which perfectly conserves all of its Medieval charm. Here, in the Ansanto valley, the remains of the Temple dedicated to the pagan goddess Mefite, can still be seen.
Our journey draws to a close in Taurasi, home of the "Barolo of Southern Italy". The Taurasi wine is produced from the Aglianico grape, the ancient Vitis Hellenica. Known for its intense ruby red color, ethereal aroma, and persistent after taste, this full bodied wine is the result of a particular process of aging, lasting for a duration of minimum three years, of which at least one in wooden barrels.
