Itineraries experience.

Calabria, sea, and sacrality

Calabria, sea, and sacrality

An itinerary along the SS18 highway, which might just as easily be followed by sea, sailing on the crystal clear waters of the Tyrrhenian sea

The first part of this wonderful journey is associated with Homer's Odyssey. In the epic tale the hero, Ulysses, lands on the Island of Dino, just off the coast near Praia a Mare. Protecting the island and the Policastro Gulf is a 12th century Norman fortress. Another legend, connected to the sanctuary of the Madonna della Grotta, tells of a sea captain who hid a wooden statue of the Virgin in a ravine. Along the coast, taking a boat, you can see, indented in the rock face, a succession of impressive caverns and, as you approach Capo Palinuro, at Sannicola Arcella, there is a rock archway that has been formed by the action of the sea, the Arco Magno.

Just a few kilometres further South along the SS18 is one of the most fascinating villages in the Calabria region. The coast village of Scalea, with its little medieval passageways and red rooves, clings, in layers, to the steep hillside. You must see the 16th century defensive Talao Tower, built by Carlo V and the handsome Santa Maria d'Episcopio Church. Inland from Scalea, is Santa Maria del Cedro. Here you can find the Cedro, citron fruit, delectable when candied, which is symbolic of Calabria.

Returning to the main road and the Valle del Leo, you come to the ghost town, Cirella Vecchia. This interesting medieval town was left empty after a French attack in 1806. The lovely church, the castle and quaint cobbled streets are just as they were a hundred years ago. From the sandy beach of the new town of Cirella you can see a dramatic watchtower on the island which bears the same name.

The road continues, still hugging the Tyrrhenian coastline, to Diamante. The historic centre of this town has been an inspiration to both Italian and International artists since 1981. Belvedere Marittimo, lies 12 kilometres further on. The name Belvedere, or "panoramic viewpoint" perfectly describes the vista of the sea from here. You will also find an 11th century castle, built by Ruggero il Normanno. From Lido delle Crete another important fortress, with great cylindrical towers, can be seen, at Principe di Sagineto.

The road takes you along the scenic Rizzi cliffs to Cetraro. Here, there are fine examples of the Baroque, for instance the Churces of San Benedetto and of Ritiro. This town is also well known for its citrus fruit. A story of vicious religious intolerance is associated with the next town, Guardia Piemontese. Here the Porta del Sangue commemorates the murder by the Inquisition of Valdese disciples. To dispel the gruesome tale, travel southwards to the sparkling sea around the rock of Scoglio della Regina.

Calabria is characterised by a mixture of the influences of the sea and those of religion. Maritime Paola seems to symbolise this. The stupendous San Francesco Sanctuary and the three churches of Madonna of Montevirgine, of the Rosario, and of the Santissima Annunziata are all to be found here. Finally, before reaching Amantea, with its extensive seashore, climb upwards to experience the sweeping view from Fiumefreddo Bruzio.


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