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Italian Nativity Scenes

Italian Nativity Scenes

From Lombardy to Sicily: the towns and villages transformed by the magic of Christmas.

The centuries-old Italian tradition of recreating the nativity scene is the perfect theme for a country-wide itinerary seeking out those ancient villages and towns which, each Christmas, transform into theatres where performances which involve the whole community are staged. In Italy, as elsewhere in the Christian world, the main purpose of the nativity scene is, of course, to recount the story of Christ's birth. But good stories evolve, and in a number of Italian towns, this simple tale has gradually grown into a full blown historical reconstruction, offering both an intriguing glimpse into life in centuries past, and, at the same time providing a unique showcase in which modern day artists can display their work.

"A town like a nativity scene, a nativity scene like a town": this is the perfect definition of Marchetto di Mosso, in the Biella province, and of its Giant Nativity Scene. Here, the nativity scene is comprised of more than 140 life-size figures and represents not only all the key moments in the nativity itself but also elaborate representations of everyday life, using statues which bear a striking likeness to the present day population of Marchetto di Mosso.

The town of Sutrio, in Friuli Venezia Giulia, is famous for its woodwork. Here, each year, "Borghi e Presepi" (''Hamlets and Nativity Scenes) is held: an exhibition which involves local craftsmen in the creation of nativity scenes in the town's courtyards, stables and loggias, and beside the "fogolar", the fireplaces which are typical of the Carnia region. The exhibition's main attraction is the "Teno Nativity" which Gaudenzio Straulino, a Sutrio-born artisan''', took 30 years to make. This work faithfully reproduces the town's buildings and inhabitants, and brings them to life by way of a series of ingenious mechanisms.

In Romagna it is Cesenatico's nativity scene that draws the crowds at Christmas. The town's "Marine Nativity Scene" is created on the water, using the ancient boats belonging to the town's Floating Maritime Museum. Here, the story of Christ's arrival on earth is adapted to coincide with the local maritime tradition, with Jesus being born, not in a stable, but aboard a fishing boat, surrounded by dolphins and the early 16th century port, which was designed by Leonardo da Vinci.

Located on the border between Marche and Romagna, Sant'Agata Feltria is one of the loveliest towns in the Montefeltro district. The town is even more beautiful in December, when it transforms into "Paese del Natale". Sant'Agata's Christmas market, brimming with original gifts and decorations is a major event, attracting thousands of visitors every year. Within the walls of the town's 11th century Fregoso Castle, an exhibition of nativity scenes by artists from every corner of the globe is held, including the work of the Sicilian artist, Angela Tripi, famous worldwide for her incredibly expressive hand-modeled clay figurines.

Each Christmas, the town of Corciano, in the province of Perugia, produces a nativity scene with life-size statues clothed in medieval style costumes created by local tailors and seamstresses. Many of the objects used to complete the nativity scene can normally be found in Corciano's Rural Museum (Museo della Casa Contadina). The setting for the nativity is the town itself, its picturesque alleyways and courtyards making a beautiful Umbrian version of Bethlehem.
In Petrignano, another Umbrian village, just a few kilometers from Assisi, the town's living nativity scene is staged in the medieval castle and on the banks of the Chiasco River. Many members of the local community are involved in the impressive religious and historical reconstruction: helping to build the extremely realistic ancient Jewish village and acting in the various scenes.

The Sicilian town of Custonaci, in the Trapani province, is famous both for its marble quarries and for the numerous caves, which were inhabited here since pre-historic times. The most fascinating of these caves is the Grotta Mangiapane, in the district of Scuraci. In the past small dwellings, stables, and bread ovens were built along the walls of the immense cave. Today, this rocky landscape provides the stage for a nativity play involving more than 300 "actors", who recount the life of the shepherds and agricultural workers living in the countryside of Trapani in the late 19th century. The nativity scene in the town of Montalbano Elicona, in the province of Messina and close to the Nebrodi Mountains, is equally impressive. Here, the inhabitants bring traditional trades and customs back to life, in the shadow of the town's Federico II Castle.


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