ItalyTraveller - Itineraries and Experiences

Itineraries - Exploring Trasimeno

This trip around central Italy's largest lake, commences with one of Italy's most beautiful towns: Castiglione del Lago. Perched on a peninsula of calciferous rock which stretches into the waters of Lake Trasimeno, Castiglione has all the features of Umbria's picturesque Medieval towns with the added bonus of magnificent lake views. Frederick II of Swabia was responsible for Castiglione's fortified and castellated walls, constructed in 1247 and still incredibly well preserved. The town's most important buildings are the Palazzo della Corgna and the Rocca del Leone. The first is a small, 16th century palace built on the site of a pre-existing hunting lodge. The Palace's spectacular frescoes, realized in late mannerist style, depict mythological characters and the adventures of the valiant knight Ascanio della Corgna. The irregular, pentagonal-shaped Rocca del Leone dates back to the Federician period. The structure is now used as an open-air theater, which, in the summer months, stages a series of evening concerts.

In the summer, ferries transport visitors from Castiglione del Lago to Isola Maggiore, the island situated right in the middle of Lake Trasimeno (in the winter, boat services depart from Tuoro and Passignano). It is easy to see why this tiny little island was chosen by St Francis in 1211 as a religious retreat for the duration of Lent. A visit to the island, still inhabited mainly by fishermen and their families, is often combined with a trip to the larger Isola Polvese and the Water Plants Garden created in an ancient sand quarry. Isola Polvese also has a castle, a 14th century fort built primarily for defense purposes. Towards the end of the 15th century the island's imposing Olivetani Monastery was constructed, next to the Romanesque Church of San Secondo, of which only the ruins remain. The Isola Polvese is best known for its rich variety of birdlife, providing the ideal habitat for nesting herons, stalks, wild swans, and cormorants.

Back on dry land, we head towards Tuoro sul Trasimeno, destined to enter the history books as the site of the 217 B.C Battle of Trasimeno, fought between the Carthaginens led by Hannibal and the army of Rome. Commemorating this event, in which much blood was spilled (apparently enough to make the waters of the lake turn red), a Permanent documentation Center of the Battle of Trasimeno has been created. Whilst in the town, we pay a visit to Piero Cascella's Campo del Sole garden at Punta Navaccia, overlooking the lake. The garden, created between 1985 and 1989, contains a large spiral of 27 sculpted columns set around a central table surmounted by a solar symbol. Nearby Passignano is famous for its beaches and lakeside promenade dedicated to the Armenian poet, Vittoria Aganoor Pompilj.

The town of Magione is dominated by its Castle of the Knights of Malta, constructed in the 13th century by the Gerosolimitani to offer hospitality to pilgrims traveling along the Via Francigena on their way to Rome. Between the 14th and 15th centuries, the hilltop edifice was fortified and thus assumed its imposing aspect, complete with circular towers and overlapping loggias. The last part of our trip around the lake takes us to Solomeo. Since 1979, this small town has been home to Brunello Cucinelli's cashmere factory (and outlet). Brunello was responsible for the restoration of the medieval town, which he financed in the belief that the beauty of his workers' immediate surroundings would be extremely beneficial to both their overall wellbeing and efficiency.

Experiences - Lakeside eco-resort

Lefay Resort & Spa is a contemporary bio hotel set in 11 hectares of park, close to the pretty little town of Gargnano on the eastern shore of Lake Garda. Built on sweeping natural terraces overlooking the lake, the Lefay Resort has been created according to the latest criteria in eco-sustainable architecture, reflecting and respecting the surrounding landscape. In the resort's spacious suites olive wood has been used for the parquet floors, walnut wood for the furniture and untreated cotton for bed and bath linen. Based on the belief that to achieve total wellbeing exposure to electromagnetic fields must be avoided, every possible effort has been made to dramatically reduce, if not eliminate, all sources of electromagnetic pollution.

The resort's 3000sqm spa has been designed to provide the ideal environment in which to experience maximum physical and psychological wellbeing. The Lefay Spa Method helps guests to restore vital energy using a combination of the results of the most advanced Western scientific research and ancient principals of classical Chinese medicine. In addition to the spa's 25 meter swimming pool and indoor and outdoor saltwater pools, the Lefay Resort has five different types of saunas: the "Caligo" steam sauna; the "Ulivo" bio sauna, paneled with purifying olive wood; the "Aromi" aromatic sauna, which exploits the balsamic properties of aromatic herbs; the "Aqua e Fuoco" Finnish sauna; and the delicately perfumed "Lady Sauna", reserved for female guests.

Outdoor activities are an important part of the Lefay Spa Method. Across the hills and through the woods in the resort's park, a running circuit and a number of wellness paths have been created, rich in symbolism and offering vital contact with nature. For those wishing to meditate outdoors, a path has been made linking the park's 5 energetic and therapeutic gardens, which symbolize the five different stages of life.

Lefay Resort & SPA Lago di Garda
Via Angelo Feltrinelli, 118
Gargnano (Brescia)
Tel: +39 0365 241800
www.lefayresorts.com

Experiences - Lopriore's Canto

The discovery of the Certosa di Maggiano and its "Il Canto" restaurant is not without its surprises. The traveler who finds himself in the green countryside around Siena and comes upon this 5 star hotel for the first time, is more often than not left speechless when presented with the sumptuous decor of the hotel's elegant public rooms and the award winning cuisine served to guests who dine in the hotel's restaurant. Originally built as Carthusian convent, the Certosa dates back to 1314. The complex was beautifully restored by the eminent architect and interior decorator, Renzo Mongiardino, after the property was purchased by the current owner, Anna Grossi Ricordati in 1969. The Certosa di Maggiano is set in 4 hectares of parkland, part of which is occupied by the vegetable gardens and orchards, which provide many of the ingredients used in the hotel's kitchen.

Certosa di Maggiano's "Il Canto" restaurant is located in what was once the convent's kitchen and still features the old wood burning oven and ancient walled stoves. This is the realm of Paolo Lopriore, a talented young chef whose various accolades include Gambero Rosso's prestigious "Three Forks". One-time pupil of the great Gualtiero Marchesi, Lopriore has worked in a number of famous Italian and international restaurants, from Florence's Enoteca Pinchiorri to the Roanne's Maison Troisgros in France. Inspired by the abundance of seasonal ingredients produced in Tuscany's fertile green countryside, Lopriore uses regional products to great effect, experimenting with forms and consistencies to create unexpected and exquisite taste sensations. A meal at Il Canto is a multisensorial eating experience which diners are unlikely to forget.

Lopriore is rightly considered to be one of Italy's most innovative and courageous chefs. He intentionally uses flavors that others shy away from, demonstrating his culinary creativity in apparently simple dishes such as the fabulous "Monochrome of raw scampi": a symphony of tastes created using the freshest scampi, carrot juice and a fantastic lemon paste, which the chef makes using the flesh and zest of the citrus fruits cultivated in the hotel gardens. Lopriore gives meticulous attention to every aspect of each meal, and even the freshly baked rolls and bread sticks are personally prepared by the chef. The "Gioco di forme, consistenze e sapori" (play of forms, consistencies and flavors) tasting starter is the perfect introduction to Lopriore's artistry.

Restaurant Il Canto
Hotel Certosa di Maggiano
Strada di Certosa, 82/86
Siena
Tel. +39 0577 288180
www.certosadimaggiano.com

Experiences - Red revival

Even today, debate as to whether the Sagrantino di Montefalco is indigenous to Umbria or not continues. A number of historic sources date the origins of the Sagrantino of Montefalco to sometime around the year 1000, when it was introduced to Italy by Franciscan monks, who used the grapes to make their communion wine. By the 1960's the Sagrantino vines had all but disappeared from the vineyards of Umbria and it was only thanks to a group of enthusiastic and determined young wine producers that the Sagrantino of Montefalco was successfully rehabilitated and once again used to produce wines of impressive stature.

Like the Sagrantino of Montefalco, the Tenuta San Lorenzo, situated close to Foligno, has a thousand-year-long history. The estate extends over almost 400 hectares of land, 80 of which are used for the cultivation of grape vines and olive trees. The rest of the land is covered in woods and meadows. At the heart of the estate, there is a tiny rural hamlet complete with 14th century convent, cloisters and a consecrated chapel. San Lorenzo's wine cellars and olive presses, designed according to the latest in modern criteria, are surrounded by parkland in which horses and deer roam freely. Although tours of the Tenuta San Lorenzo are centered around the company's wine and olive oil production they almost always include a visit to the woods and the old convent. Tours complete with tastings of wine and typical gastronomic products are available by reservation.

In addition to its highly prized red wines, the most famous of which is the dry Sagrantino di Montefalco, Tenuta San Lorenzo produces Cleos: an excellent wine made with the cherry-flavored Ciliegiolo grape, typical of Umbria. Another of the estate's pedigree products is its "Millenario" DOP extra virgin olive oil. This wonderfully fragrant oil, laced with the delicate aromas of the Umbrian countryside, is obtained from olives hand-picked in October, before they have reached their full maturation, which then pressed within 12 hours of harvesting.

Tenuta San Lorenzo
San Lorenzo Vecchio, 30
Foligno (Perugia)
Tel: +39 0742 22553
www.tenutasanlorenzo.it

Experiences - Valsugana: 180° taste

Valsugana is a corner of Trentino famous for its Alpine lakes, lakes which, being among the warmest in Europe, are the preferred destination of both water sports enthusiasts and holidaymakers in search of moments of complete relaxation. Lake Caldonazzo is one of the area's main attractions, as is the picturesque lakeside town of Caldonazzo. It is here, in Caldonazzo's Piazza del Municpio, that the "Centottantagradi" gastronomic laboratory, delicatessan, and cooking school is located.

The man behind the initiative is Luca Zangoni, who, as the son of hoteliers, and with a career working as cook at Rovereto's "Al Borgo" restaurant and restaurant manager at the Castel Pergine, has spent almost all his life in the kitchen. His love of the region's gastronomic traditions and, in particular, of the authentic and healthy foodstuffs cultivated in the area's organic farms, inspired him to open Centottantagradi, a delicatessen and cooking school where customers can not only purchase soups, fresh pasta, salads, breads and cakes, but also attend courses held in the well-equipped laboratory.

The calendar of available courses, which faithfully follows the changing seasons, is an enticing one. This spring, students can enroll for the "Cooking with Flowers" course, attending lessons on how to prepare dishes using dandelions, lilac, violets and daisies; "Cooking with Cereals", demonstrating wholesome first and second courses made with spelt, millet, barley and corn; "Cakes like your Granny used to make them", rediscovering the almost forgotten flavors of traditional baking; and "Peasant Cooking", using those humble ingredients which, in the kitchen, are quickly transformed into priceless delicacies. Each lesson lasts for two hours and is held in the evening, so that students can combine an active lakeside holiday with a gastronomic experience to remember.

Centottantagradi
Piazza del Municipio, 13
Caldonazzo (Trento)
Tel: +39 0461 723488
cell +39 329 7367708
www.centottantagradi.com

Experiences - Bio-energetic paths

Sited on the hill overlooking the River Tronto Valley, and just a few kilometers away from the city of Ascoli Piceno, is the historic group of buildings which make up Borgo Storico Seghetti Panichi. This hamlet is comprised of an ancient medieval fortress, which was converted into an aristocratic country residence in the 18th century, an early 17th century oratory, the San Pancrazio Residence, and a number of other edifices, constructed between the 17th and 19th centuries. The entire complex has been transformed into a luxurious country hotel where a relaxing holiday in Italy's still largely undiscovered Marche region can be enjoyed.

Although now a prestigious resort, Borgo Seghetti Panichi became famous, not for its beautiful period buildings, but for its historic gardens. The gardens were created in 1875 by Ludwig Winter, the celebrated German landscape architect who, along with the Hanbury brothers, had been responsible for the design of Villa La Mortola's gardens in Ventimiglia. In the Marche, Winter designed the Seghetti Panichi gardens according to the fashion of the time, complete with a splendid collection of palm trees and terraced citrus trees. These "exotic" elements were integrated with plants typical of the region, such as copper beach, linden and oak trees, including the oak tree now referred to as the "cathedral" because of the incredible width of its trunk and spread of its canopy.

Today, the Seghetti Panichi Historic Gardens are the first historic gardens in Italy to have bio-energetic paths. Using bio-energetic landscape techniques, the electromagnetic levels of the garden have been measured and bio-energetic areas identified based on the specific electromagnetism emitted by the plants and according to criteria studied by the bio landscape designer, Marco Nieri. As visitors enter each bio-energetic area, they are introduced to the therapeutic properties of plants, which, thanks to their correct positioning, have a positive influence on various organs of the human body. Thus whilst exploring the garden, visitors discover that holm oak stimulates cardio circulation, that laurel boosts the immune system and that holly has a beneficial effect on the nervous system.

Seghetti Panichi Historic Gardens
Via San Pancrazio, 1
Castel di Lama (Ascoli Piceno)
Reservations: Tel.+ 39 0736 812552
www.seghettipanichi.it

Open all year, for groups, by reservation only and with guided tour
Visting hours: Monday -Sunday from 10.00 to 18.00

Experiences - The art of conquering

On March 5th, the Capitolini Museums will inaugurate the first of the Days of Rome, a series of five great annual exhibitions, which, each year, until 2014, will explore the history of Roman art and illustrate the artistic impact of the populations conquered by the Roman empire. The 2010 exhibition "The Age of Conquest. The Fascination of Greek Art in Rome" explores the influence of the Ancient Greeks on the artistic production and aesthetic canons of Rome in the period from the late 3rd century B.C until the first half of the 1st century A.D. This period in history was crucial for the formation of Rome's future cultural and artistic identity. The dominant political class felt that it was the necessary to reinforce their position of power via the installation of grandiose works of art and architecture throughout Rome, and as a consequence the city was filled with Hellenic art.

The Triumphal Processions of generals Flaminio, Marcello, Lucio Mummio and Pompeo, on their return from conquering campaigns illustrate the historic dimension of this exhibition. As part of these parades, stunning works of art, statues and paintings sequestered in faraway lands were carried through the streets. The Roman generals had the habit of surrounding themselves with artists, scholars, architects, and artisans from Greece, all of whom contributed to the progressive "hellenisization" of Rome. Profiles of temples and statues, such as those of the Scipione Asiatico in Campidoglio, which were inspired by the Greeks, came to dominate the skyline of Rome.

The exhibition contains artistic masterpieces from the whole of the Mediterranean basin, many of which are on loan from the major European Museums. The museum route is comprised of four sections:

Gods and Sanctuaries, containing numerous statues, friezes and pediments of temples.
"Honorary monuments", dedicated to the celebratory statues of the victorious generals.
2Living like Greeks", which offers an interesting panorama of Greek lifestyle, including household furnishings and domestic appliances.
"Funerary customs", in connection with which it is evident that the Romans were less influenced by the Ancient Greeks, and adopted only a few of their practices.

Days of Rome. The Age of Conquest. The fascination of Greek art in Rome
Capitolini Museums - Palazzo Caffarelli
Via delle Tre Pile, 1
Rome
www.museicapitolini.org

March 5th - September 5th 2010
Opening hours: from Tuesday to Sunday from 09.00hrs to 20.00hrs

Experiences - The image museum

In 1852, the Alinari brothers opened a photographic workshop in Florence, specializing in photographic portraits and images of works of art, which quickly met with great national and international success. Today, the Fratelli Alinari Photographic Studio can legitimately claim to be the oldest photographic company in the world. Year after year, side by side, Fratelli Alinari and the art of photography have evolved, and the Alinari Archives now contain a staggering 4 million images: a priceless visual heritage which documents in photos not only the history, landscapes, society, art and traditions of Italy from the second half of the 1800's to the present day, but also those of Europe and the rest of the world.

Whilst the company archives are conserved in the historic Palazzo Alinari, the MNAF, the Alinari National Museum of Photography, is located in Florence's 15th century "delle Leopoldine" in Piazza Santa Maria Novella. The museum is comprised of an area for temporary exhibits and a permanent exhibition space dedicated to the history and evolution of photographic techniques.

The seven sections of this museum of images start with the origins of the media, and go on to explore the so-called "golden years of photography" (from 1860 to 1920), the avant-garde, and modern day photography; with references to the 19th and 20th century photographers responsible for images which have become part of the collective imagination.

The MNAF has other interesting sections too: from those dedicated to the history of cameras and photographic albums to the fascinating Touch Museum. The Touch Museum's tour itinerary, created in collaboration with Tuscany's "Stamperia Braille" and the Italian Association for the Blind, features a series of relief interpretations of 20 of the photographs in the exhibition, created so that visually disabled visitors can experience the artworks via touch. This section is open both to the visually impaired and the sighted, and offers all visitors a unique sensorial experience.

Guided visits to the historic Fratelli Alinari Photographic Studios are organized for groups only. Visitors are introduced to one of the world's most complete photographic libraries, the restoration laboratories, and the "stamperia d'arte", the only atelier still practicing the collotype method of printing.

MNAF Museo Nazionale Alinari della Fotografia
Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 14a rosso
Florence
www.alinarifondazione.it

Opening hours: from 10.00hrs to 19.00hrs
Closed on Wednesay

Experiences - Legendary Castles

The area of Lunigiana, between Tuscany and Liguria, is often referred to as the "land of a hundred castles". Arguably the most spectacular of Lunigiana's fortified edifices is that of Fosdinvovo, near Sarzana. Here, in the 12th century, the Malaspina family erected a magnificent stronghold, enlarged during the Renaissance to serve as both fortress and royal palace. The castle is still owned by members of the Torrigiani-Malaspina family, who are deservedly proud of the building's illustrious past, and the times when the castle offered refuge to none other than the exiled Dante Alighieri. A tour of the Renaissance courtyard, frescoed halls, dining room (complete with a collection of 17th century pharmacy ceramics), bedrooms, torture room and external walkways with views of the sea of Liguria, evokes the memory of legends associated with the castle. The most poignant of these tales tells the ill-fated love story of Lady Bianca Maria Alosia, the daughter of Jacopo Malaspina and Oliva Grimaldi, and a young man of humble origins. The discovery of this decidedly unsuitable liaison resulted in the pair being tortured. Bianca was walled up, alive, in a castle cell, together with a dog, the symbol of fidelity and a wild boar, the symbol of rebellion. It is said that the ghost of Bianca Maria Alosia, her long hair flowing, continues to haunt the castle. (www.castellodifosdinovo.it)

The Castle of Poppi, in the heart of the Casentino, is one of Tuscany's most beautiful fortified edifices. Dating back to the 12th century, Poppi Castle has an incredibly well conserved dry moat, drawbridge, mullioned windows and original wooden balconies. The history of the fortress is linked to that of the Conti Guidi family who lived here for over 400 years. Like all ancient castles, Poppi Castle has its own resident ghost: that of the licentious Metelda who, legend has it, used to hurl her unfortunate lovers into a well when she had finished with them. This anti-social practice resulted in her being locked up in the tower by the disgruntled locals. It is said that her restless spirit stills roams the castle, looking for gullible young men to seduce. (www.castellodipoppi.it)

Other members of the Guidi dynasty, this time from the collateral branch Guidi di Bagno, took over from the Malatesta family as owners of the Castle of Montebello. This edifice is sited on the high plains between Romagna and the Marche, close to the Adriatic coast. The fortress lies not far away from other, more famous, strongholds such as those of Gradara and San Leo where Cagliostro was imprisoned. Montebello Castle conserves the legends and secrets which make it one of the most mysterious in the whole of Italy. Within its walls, visitors can still come across ancient strongboxes and chests dating back to the time of the crusades, concealed passageways, sudden pit holes, and the Azzurrina tunnel. The tunnel was named after Guendalina (also known as Azzurrina, on account of the bluish shade of her eyes and hair), who was the young daughter of the Feudal chief Uguccione. In 1375, the girl mysteriously disappeared whilst chasing after a ball which had rolled into one of the castle's underground passageways. Legend has it that, since the time of her disappearance, every five years during the summer solstice, Guendalina's ghost reappears. During the tour of the castle visitors are able to listen to the recordings of what some believe to be the lost child's cries. (www.castellomontebello.com)

Rome's Castel Sant'Angelo was built as mausoleum for the emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century B.C. Over the centuries the immense cylindrical edifice was transformed into a quite unassailable fortress and an imposing papal residence, complete with covered fortified corridor linked to the Vatican palaces, which, in case of danger, provided a strategic escape route for the Pope. The name of the castle is linked to the legendary tale of a miraculous apparition of an angel, who drew an end to the plague raging through the city during the pontificate of Gregorio Magno. In the past, Castel Sant'Angelo has served as a much feared prison, in which the most gruesome of tortures and executions were carried out and in this guise, was chosen as the setting for one of the greatest Italian operas, Giacomo Puccini's "Tosca". It was in fact here that the painter Cavaradossi was imprisoned and shot, his death prompting his distraught lover, Tosca, to throw herself off the castle terrace. Today the castle is home to the National Museum of Castel Sant Angelo, in which a number of impressive art collections are housed. (www.castelsantangelo.com)

The history of Naples' Castell dell'Ovo is linked to an ancient of tale of how, on the tiny islet of Megaride on which the castle is constructed, the body of the mermaid Partenope was found. The origins of the castle date back to the times of the Dukedom of Naples. It owes its name, "The Egg Castle", to the magician Virgilio who, according to the legend, hid a magic egg in a cage, proclaiming that all the time it remained intact the city of Naples, and the castle, would be free of disaster. Other popular stories regarding the castle, include the 15th century queens, Giovanna I and Giovanna II, who had the unpleasant habit of throwing their lovers down the castle's secret tunnels, as soon as they began to tire of them. Today, Castel dell'Ovo is used as conference center and exhibition venue. Sections of the castle, including the Normandia and Maestra towers, are still open to the general public.

Experiences - Six ideas for Valentine's day

Go ballooning over Aosta.
From February 11th to 15th, the skies over the town of Aosta will be filled with the colorful hot air balloons participating in the 7th Aosta Balloon Festival (www.mongolfiere.it). On Valentine's day, couples can share the unforgettable experience of floating through the skies of Aosta in hot air balloons, and even enjoy a high altitude champagne toast.

Spend a weekend at Castel Rundegg of Merano and take a ride in a horse drawn carriage.
Merano in wintertime is especially magical, even more so when lying beneath a generous sprinkling of snow. The town's luxurious Hotel Castel Rundegg) is the ideal destination for this coming Valentines' weekend. For the occasion the hotel has created special packages, including treatments for two at the hotel's beauty farm. To make guests' stay even more memorable, the hotel organizes rides in a horse drawn carriage to the highest part of the town, to the gardens of Castel Trauttmansdorff, and the small church dedicated to the great St Valentine himself: the perfect place in which to exchange a promise of eternal love.

Partecipate in "Verona in Love" and touch the statue of Juliet.
2010 marks the 5th edition of the Verona in Love festival, held in the center of the city chosen by Shakespeare as the setting for his legendary "Romeo and Juliet". One of the highlights of the event is the "Dear Juliet" award, with prizes for the most beautiful of the letters sent each year, from all corners of the world, to the romantic heroine. During the weekend, lovers walk hand in hand amongst the market stalls, which are positioned to form a heart shape, in Piazza dei Signori. Here, on Sunday at 17.30hrs, couples are invited to the "Heart of kisses" event, and to exchange a minute-long kiss whilst being photographed from the heights of Torre dei Lamberti. Not to be missed: a visit to Juliet's House, where, legend has it, those who touch the breast of the statue of Juliet in the courtyard will be blessed with good fortune in love.

Compete in the "Couple of the Century" competition at Busseto's Grand Carnival.
On February 14th, during the 129th edition of the Carnival, which is held each year in Verdi's birthplace, Busseto in Parma Province, the "sfida degli innamorati" fancy dress competition will take place. Participating couples will parade through the streets of the town dressed as famous lovers from history or the film world. The winners will be crowned "Couple of the Carnival". If you fancy yourselves as a modern day Antonio and Cleopatra, Romeo and Juliet, or even as Brad and Angelina lookalikes, then this is your moment!

Get lost in the garden of Villa Garzoni at Collodi.
The garden of Villa Garzoni in Collodi (Pistoia), home of the Parco di Pinocchio, is a beautiful combination of renaissance and baroque garden design with stunning water features, tailored box bushes, and statues hidden amidst the green. A path leads from the garden's stunning Neptune's Grotto to a maze, a visit to which, legend has it, is lucky for lovers. Perhaps it is propitious because the maze symbolizes the path to be undertaken together in life or, perhaps, because, in the past, the mazes' hidden corners provided the perfect cover for secret liaisons!

Rev up the romance in Rome with a limousine ride through the city, a smooch on the Milvio bridge, and declaration of eternal love in front of the "Mouth of Truth".
Fixing a padlock to a lamp post on Rome's Milvio Bridge and throwing away the key is a tradition which has recently become a teenage mania following the success of Federico Moccia's novel and the ensuing film, "I desire you, I want you" (Ho voglia di te). Imitating the gesture of the book's main characters, hoards of love-struck Italian adolescents have started attaching padlocks engraved with their initials to the bridge and throwing the keys into the Tiber River, the custodian of their love. The incredible quantity of padlocks now fixed to the bridge's lamp-posts has forced the Council of Rome to add a series of iron pillars, to both better accommodate the locks and protect the original posts.
Only lovers of certain sentiment should dare exchange a promise of fidelity in front of the Mouth of Truth, a monument, which, according to the Ancient Roman legend, rarely spares the insincere from punishment. Those wishing to really surprise their loved one, can do so by hiring a luxurious limousine in which to take a romantic spin around the capital.

Experiences - Costume dramas

Madonna di Campiglio's Habsburg Carnival offers visitors to this much loved ski resort in Trentino the opportunity to travel back in time to the 1800's and to the period when Madonna di Campiglio was the favorite destination of the Hapsburgs and the other Royal families of Europe. Princess Sissi and the emperor Francesco Giuseppe were particularly fond of the place and the weeklong carnival recreates the atmosphere of the Austrian court, with a series of glamorous Viennese balls, costumed parades, and processions of locals dressed as Austrian soldiers. The festivities are made all the more magical by the backdrop of snow capped mountains.

A document dated 1094 states how the inhabitants of Venice dedicated not days but entire weeks before the arrival of Lent to having fun. The origins of the lagoon city's Carnival can be traced back to the ancient pagan celebrations staged to mark the end of winter and the arrival of spring, a time when all forms of entertainment were deemed legitimate and served as vital release valve, which the ruling classes used as a tool to combat social tension. At the time of the Republic of Venice, the Carnival began much earlier than it does today, commencing on the first Sunday of October and concluding on Shrove Tuesday. The Venetians stopped working in order to dedicate their time to the celebrations, festivities which included spectacular acrobatic acts and daring performances with trained animals. A number of carnivals have entered the history books, such as that of 1571 which celebrated the victory of Lepanto. After the legendary 18th century carnivals, attended by personalities such as Giacomo Casanova, in the 19th century the Venice Carnival took on a decidedly romantic vein, attracting artists, musicians, writers and beautiful ladies from every corner of the globe. Today, during the carnival, the city transforms into an immense stage where all are welcome to enjoy themselves and play a role in the festivities. Those looking for an authentic 18th century style Venetian costume should contact the Atelier Marega (www.marega.com), which specializes in dress hire.

Muggia, in the province of Trieste, hosts the most famous carnival in the whole of the Friuli region. The Muggia Carnival dates back to the 15th century and still features the historic Ballo della Verdura (Vegetable Ball), attended by couples adorned with floral garlands. Other characteristics of the carnival include the abolition of face masks and the gigantic omelet which is cooked in a huge frying pan in the center of the piazza following the collection of eggs made to the chant of "tutti a ovi".

Colorful, boisterous, at times downright violent, the Historic Carnival of Ivrea distinguishes itself from other Italian carnivals with its symbols and libertarian origins. By way of a series of complex rituals, the carnival commemorates the revolt of the inhabitants of Ivrea against the Marquis of Monferrato, a revolt symbolized by the figure of the Mugnaia: a miller's daughter famous for having killed the local lord who attempted to rape her. One of the key parts in the festivities is the legendary battle of the oranges, which, for three whole days, rages through this medieval town in Piedmont. The battle is fought between groups of men aboard carriages (representing the aristocracy), and crowds of orange throwers on foot, (representing the masses), and involves the expenditure of vast quantities of fruit, thankfully the only weapons used. The "guards" are protected by padded clothing and leather masks, whilst the commoners wear the traditional red beret, the symbol of rebellion against all forms of tyranny.

The Cento carnival was the subject of one of Guercino's most famous paintings (1615). Today this historic carnival, which in 1993 was twinned with that of Rio de Janero, is an explosion of gigantic allegorical floats, energetic samba dancers and amazing costumes. The carnival is famous for the generous quantity of chocolates and confetti distributed among the crowds, and the traditional Tasi mask. The Tasi, the figure which opens the proceedings, depicts a 19th century inhabitant of the town who, when asked to choose between his wife and a glass of wine, loved his favorite drink so much, that he chose the latter. Before being burnt on the last day of carnival, the Tasi reads out his will, an entertaining text which makes fun of many of Cento's best known inhabitants.

The procession of floats bearing huge allegorical figures made from papier mâché, is the highlight of the Carnival of Viareggio, widely considered to be one of the most spectacular carnivals in the world. The Viareggio carnival, which was first celebrated in 1873, was created by a group of wealthy young men, who saw the event as a novel way to protest against the excessive taxes they were being forced to pay by the local government. This idea led to the use of typical Tuscan satire and political references which characterizes many of the floats, which depict high profile figures from contemporary Italian and world politics along with classic characters from Italian Commedia dell'Arte. The procession, which crawls its way along the town's seafront promenade, surrounded by groups of dancers and street performers, now attracts a crowd of more than 200,000 onlookers.

The colorful carnival of Offida, in the Marche, has a decidedly pagan feel. It starts with an ox, made from metal and wood, being transported through the streets of the town all the way to the piazza. The town's inhabitants, dressed in the traditional "guazzarò" or bull fighting costume, chase behind the ox, running and shouting, as if participating in an authentic Spanish corrida. At the end of the festivities, the ox is symbolically slaughtered and paraded through the town whilst the onlookers sing the Offida carnival anthem. On Shrove Tuesday the inhabitants walk through the town, in traditional costume, holding blazing "vlurd", big bunches of burning straw and reeds with which an immense bonfire is made to mark the carnival's conclusion.

Experiences - Mediterranean wisdom

Ever since the times when the Etruscans and, a little later, the Ancient Romans discovered the place, San Casciano dei Bagni, on the hills of Tuscany's Val d'Orcia, has been famous for its hot springs; springs which provide a constant supply of water rich in fluoride, sulphur, magnesium, and calcium. Set in one of the most enchanting landscapes in the whole of Tuscany, the Fonteverde thermal springs, the waters of which surface at a temperature of 42°, are the well-known "secret" of one of the region's most exclusive spa-hotels - the Fonteverde Natural Spa Resort.

Relaxing at this destination spa is easy: there are numerous thermal pools, including two indoor treatment pools, a Bioaquam pool (with some 22 different types of hydromassage), and, surrounded by magnificent views of the Tuscan countryside, there is an outdoor pool, lined in travertine and filled with cold water, which offers welcome relief from the heat of summer.

Fonteverde Resort's "Ancient Mediterranean Spa" area combines the therapeutic properties of typically Mediterranean elements, with wellness techniques of oriental origin. The Ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans all used olive oil for its excellent moisturizing, purifying and protective properties. At Fonteverde, Tuscany's extra virgin olive oil is employed in a series of face and body treatments and as a principal ingredient in the resort's exclusive "Mediterranean Line" products.

The spa's "Five Elements theory" is inspired by an ancient tradition of Chinese medicine; based on the principle that human beings, like all things in nature, are regulated by five essences of energy: fire, water, wood, metal and earth. Five Elements treatments exploit the energy obtained from each element in order to restore natural balance. The "Salidarium", for example, is based on the element of Fire and involves the immersion in crystals of sea salt to stimulate the circulation and free the body of toxins. The Thalaquam massage uses the properties of water to release the energy of the meridians.

Fonteverde Natural Spa Resort
Località Terme, 1
53040 - San Casciano dei Bagni - Siena
Tel: +39 0578 57241
www.fonteverdespa.com

Experiences - Locanda Don Serafino

Situated in the heart of the magnificent baroque city of Ragusa Ibla, in ancient stone buildings which once served as stores for the Church dei Miracoli, the Locanda Don Serafino is one of Sicily's finest restaurants. An attractive combination of graceful arches and thick, exposed stone walls characterizes the dining rooms of a restaurant created with the intention of offering the very best of the island's hospitality, architecture and cuisine. Locanda Don Serafino is a family project: the La Rosa brothers named the restaurant after their father, Serafino, who opened the city's successful Lido Azzurro eatery, situated on the beach of Marina di Ragusa, in the early 1950's.

Locanda Don Serafino more than deserves its Michelin Star; awarded in recognition of the faultless hospitality offered by the owners, and the culinary flair of Vincenzo Candiano, a young chef who, ever since he started cooking (at the tender age of 11), has accumulated a string of prestigious accolades for his superb regional cuisine. Candiano's delicious, unmistakably Sicilian, dishes include Lasagnette with plain cocoa and ricotta cheese, Mackerel with tender courgette leaves and tomato "capuliatu", and Rabbit with bacon and Bronte pistachio.

Guests dine at elegantly set tables in the stone walled dining rooms or by candlelight in the cellar, where over 1000 labels of wine are housed. Not to be missed: Locanda Don Serafino tastings of Sicilian olive oils, accompanied by a selection of homemade breads, including a fabulous bread made with carob floor. Equally unmissable and offering the perfect conclusion to a meal: the selection of 5 local cheeses served with Candiano's deliciously fresh ricotta mousse.

Reserved for aficionados of fine tobacco, Locanda Don Serafino's intimate Cigar room boasts an excellent selection of Cuban cigars, rums and cognacs. Locanda Don Serafino now also provides luxurious guest accommodation, in ten beautifully furnished rooms located in a 19th century building, just a few meters away from the restaurant.

Locanda Don Serafino
Via 11 Febbraio. 15
97100 Ragusa Ibla
Tel: +39 0932 220065
www.locandadonserafino.it

Experiences - Friuli in a glass

Starting with the composition of its terrain, Friuli is a region perfect for grape-growing. The lower plains of Collio, the area where many of Italy's finest white wines are made, were once entirely submerged beneath the sea. Over the centuries, the rising seabed and the accumulation of sand and debris resulted in the formation of a soil rich in marl and sandstone, and thus the ideal habitat for the cultivation of vines.

Today, the green and sunny hillside of Collio, extending west of Gorizia all the way along the Slovenian border, is famous for the production of Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Collio Bianco. Established approximately 40 years ago, Collio's "wine and cherry road" (www.collio.it) was the very first Italian wine road. The road snakes its way among the vineyards, passing through the little towns of San Floriano, Capriva del Friuli, Cormons and Dolegna del Collio.

One of the most impressive historic cellars on route is that of Capriva, located in the Castle of Spessa, an imposing 13th century fortress where Giacomo Casanova stayed in 1773. In the castle, which was extensively restored in the 19th century, wines similar to those much praised by Casanova, are still produced. The castle's medieval cellars house an impressive selection of wonderfully fresh and elegant white wines, rich reds, and the excellent "Riserva del Conte" grappa (www.paliwines.com).

Whilst at Capriva, wine lovers should make sure they visit Villa Russiz, the late 19th century residence of Count Teodoro de La Tour. The count had identified the sun-drenched site as the perfect place in which to pursue his passion for viticulture, and soon set about employing the innovative new wine making techniques being developed in his native France at the time. Now managed by the award winning oenologist Gianni Menotti, Villa Russiz continues to produce DOC wines of the highest quality (www.villarussiz.it).

San Floriano, on the Italian-Slovenian border, is home to Patrizia Felluga's Zuani Cellars, responsible for a number of the region's best wines. In addition to paying a visit to the winery (www.zuanivini.it), travelers should stop off at the Osteria Luka, to taste the delicious local cuisine, the result of an enticing combination of Friulian, Slovenian and Austrian culinary traditions.

Located in the ancient walled town of Cormons, the Cantina Produttori (www.cormons.com/) is responsible for an intriguing project: the Vineyard of the World. Back in 1983, the company started sourcing vines from the five continents, collecting a total of almost 600 types of grapes with which the "Wine of Peace" was created: a tangible symbol of universal fraternity which, each year, is sent to international heads of state. The soul of the world in a glass.

Experiences - Taste laboratory

A cooking school, catering service, culinary theater, bookshop and emporium: this is Anice Verde, the brainchild of the entrepreneur Pasquale Procacci Leone and his wife, Letizia. After years spent attending some of the best cooking and restaurant management schools in Italy, including the Gambero Rosso's Città del Gusto in Rome, Pasquale decided to transform his passion for food into a full-blown culinary enterprise.

Occupying a typical Puglian farmhouse in the countryside of Corato (province of Bari), Anice Verde is a "taste laboratory" offering cooking lessons for both absolute beginners and qualified professionals. A range of courses is available including those teaching basic cooking techniques, theme menus, and new culinary trends. During lessons, every phase of food preparation is filmed and projected on screens, thus allowing students to have a close up vision of proceedings, from any workstation.

One of the Anice Verde's strong points is the high profile of the teachers, with lessons being taught by the likes of Massimiliano Mariola and Igles Corelli (who regularly appear on the Gambero Rosso Channel) and famous chefs such as Fabio Pisani, from the award winning Aimo e Nadia restaurant.

Another reason for this innovative center's success is its "kitchen theater". Shows see great names from the Italian and international cooking scene intent on preparing elaborate dinners to the delight of 80-90 spectators. Whilst the participating chef is busy cooking, in Anice Verde's kitchen the dishes which will be served at the end of the performance are being prepared. During the evening, guests have the opportunity to taste the wines which leading sommeliers have chosen to accompany the meal. Table decoration is always in complete harmony with the theme of the dinner.

Anice Verde also has a culinary bookshop, with all the latest gastronomic publications, and an emporium stocking items specially selected for those with an authentic passion for good food and wine, cooking, and the kitchen.

Anice Verde
Via Salaria 3
70033 Corato (Bari)
tel. +39 080 8725679
Cell. +39 340 2565409
www.aniceverde.com