ItalyTraveller - Itineraries and Experiences

Experiences - The art of love

You'll have a hard job finding a better destination for a romantic weekend away than the beautiful Italian city in which the legendary lovers Romeo and Juliet met.

Thousands of love struck couples, from each and every corner of the globe, flock to Verona each year to see the city and the places associated with the love story. This, despite the fact that, the greater part of the various locations have little, if anything, to do with Romeo and Juliet (it was in the relatively recent 1935 that a superintendent, keen to fuel interest in the city, assigned the sites to various moments from the tale).

It's easy to suspend your disbelief when in Verona: a truly romantic city, seemingly custom-- designed for those in love. And, for those traveling as a couple, a little sentimental kitsch will do no harm.

Juliet's house, balcony and love letters

The House of Juliet, in via Cappello, is the best known, most visited and most photographed of all the sites linked to the legend, and, perhaps, the least likely to have had anything to do with it, given that it was almost entirely rebuilt in the early 20th century; the time when the famous balcony was added!

Whether you believe Juliet ever looked over that balcony or not, a kiss in front of the bronze statue of Shakespeare's most loved female protagonist is an obligatory one.

Once back home, send a letter to Giulietta Capuleti- Verona. Unbelievable but true, you'll receive a reply penned by the volunteers of the Juliet Club, who with great patience and dedication, respond to each and every epistle

Two hearts and a stone on the lovers' terrace

Via the courtyard of Juliet's house, visitors access the Terrazza degli Innamorati (or Lover's Terrace), which is now an integral part of Verona's Teatro Stabile. The terrace is one of the most romantic viewing points in the whole city. From here you can see the place where, apparently, Romeo and Juliet first fell in love.

In 2008, the floor of the terrace was restored and paved with 60.000 marble tiles. This was when the 'Lovestone' project was launched, inviting couples to leave an indelible sign of their love (using laser technology) on one of the tiles. Lovers participating in the project receive a certificate indicating the number and position of the tile.

Where the love story had its tragic end

Another obligatory stop on this art tour of amour is Juliet's Tomb, located just outside the walls of the city, in the convent of San Francesco al Corso.
Visitors access the underground crypt where the sarcophagus is housed via the cloisters. The charm of the ancient convent increases the atmosphere of entrancement further and it's easy to forget that, it's extremely unlikely that Juliet was ever buried here!

Whilst at the convent, make sure you visit the Museo degli Affreschi Cavalcaselle, home to a magnificent collection of frescoes dating from the 10th to 16th century

A game guide to discover the city... for two

A novel way to explore the city, the 'Verona Amor Game Guide', published by WhaiWhai, takes visitors on a tour of 35 sites linked to 35 intriguing enigmas. Imagining that the last descendent of the Capuleti family needs their help, players follow text messages related to specific pages of the guide.

A taste of Verona

Alas, you can't live on love alone so, if your tummy starts rumbling, pop into L'Antica Bottega del Vino in via Scudo di Francia 3: a cozy little eatery serving all of the city's best loved dishes.

If you're looking for a peaceful spot to have dinner, beyond Verona, head to Bardolino, on the shores of Lake Garda, and the a Loggia Rambaldi restaurant, housed within the walls of a stunning 16th century edifice in Piazza Principe Amedeo, opposite the port.

Experiences - A plateful of Langhe

Langhe is the area of Piedmont between and including the cities of Alba, Mondovì and Acqui Terme. In this enchanting landscape of gently undulating hills, ancient castles, medieval villages and vast vineyards, some of the finest food and wine in the whole of Piedmont is produced, making Langhe the perfect destination for a gourmet getaway.

First things first

Tajarin and agnolotti del plin: what better way to start a meal in Langhe? Tajarin are long thin strips of fresh pasta, typically served in a rich mushroom, meat or "comodino" sauce. The curiously named "comodino" (bed side table in Italian) sauce is made using a mixture of vegetables cooked in lard and bathed in red wine.
Agnolotti "del plin" (small pasta parcels which take their name from the pinch required to seal them) are filled with various types of braised meat and vegetables.

You'll find both dishes on the menù at:
Trattoria della Posta: Località Sant'Anna 87, Monforte d'Alba Tel: +39 0173.78120

Great meat feasts

When it comes to 'secondi' in Langhe, Fassona Piemontese beef inevitably steals the show. The carnivorously-inclined will relish the protein-packed "battuta di carne cruda a coltello": slices of raw, hand-carved beef, seasoned with just a little salt, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a few flakes of truffle.

Meat packs even more punch in the "Gran Bollito Misto". Wonderfully rich yet incredibly simple, this recipe, typical of the town of Carrù, puts together 7 cuts of different meat, 7 types of offal, 7 sauces (or 'bagnet'), and 7 side dishes to create one of the most flavorsome meals you're ever likely to eat.

Two great eateries in which to savor the Gran Bollito Misto:
Ristorante Moderno Via della Misericordia 12, Carrù (CN) - Tel: +39 0173 75493
Osteria del Borgo Via Garibaldi, 19 Carrù (CN) - Tel: + 39 0173 759184

Say "cheese"!

Fresh and sweet, soft and ripe or hard and strong? However you like your cheese, if you're a dairy devotee, you'll want to head into Alta Langa, famous for not one, not two but three DOP cheeses: Robiola di Roccaverano, Murazzano and Castelmagno, each of which bears the name of the town in which they were first produced.
For a bite of the best, pop into one of the artisan dairies in each cheese's town of origin.

Castelmagno migliore is made some 1600m above sea level, where the pastures rich in herbs and flowers give the milk of the cows which graze them a quite unique taste and aroma.

Our favorite place in which to chomp some chunks of Castelmagno
Dove osano le aquile - via Matteotti 4, Castelmagno

Quaffing in the castle

In Barolo, the town which gives its name to one of Italy's finest wines, travelers with a love for Bacchus's favorite tipple should be sure not to miss a tour of the WIMU (www.wimubarolo.it), the stunning wine museum housed within the walls of the Falleti Castle.
Among the experiences on offer, the weekend wine tastings, hosted by expert sommeliers and enologists, are an absolute must.

Experiences - Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

There is no other form of transport capable of conjuring up such a unique mixture of adventure, romance and Art Deco glamour than the "Venice Simplon-Orient-Express", immortalized in Agatha Christie's famous mystery and the film adaptation which earned Ingred Bergman an Oscar.

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express's escorted art-city tours

Having been successfully revived in1982, today the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express has joined forces with the National Gallery, London to create a number of exclusive tours, which start in the British capital and conclude in other great European cities such as Venice and Paris, visiting artistic masterpieces in the countries of their creation, in the company of expert guides from one of the world's most prestigious museums.

Renaissance rivals at the National Gallery

From May 2012 a new exciting, art-packed, itinerary will be available, in collaboration with the National Gallery's expert guides, following in the steps of the great Renaissance rivals, Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo.
The 9 day tour starts in London, with an exclusive viewing of sketches by Leonardo and Michelangelo in the British Museum, followed by a visit to the National Gallery to see Leonardo's The Virgin of the Rocks, together with the gallery's two paintings by Michelangelo.

Nine days travelling across Europe from London to Florence, via Milan, following the traces of great Renaissance artists: climb aboard the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

Masterpieces of Milan

After a night at London's Goring Hotel, travelers commence the two day journey aboard the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express: destination Milan.
Here, in the city where Leonardo was court painter to Duke Lodovico Sforza, the artistic itinerary includes the viewing of Da Vinci's "Last Supper" in the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, his Codex Atlanticus, conserved in the Ambrosiana Library, as well as Michelangelo's "Rondanini Pietà" in the city's Sforzesco castle, and the Renaissance masterpieces in the Brera gallery.

In Florence, finishing where the Renaissance began

The journey concludes in Florence, with a three night sojourn at Villa San Michele by Orient-Express. In the Tuscan capital, the National Gallery guide accompanies guests on a tour of the Chiesa di Ognissanti, to see Ghirlandaio's The Last Supper, the Accademia Gallery, home to Michelangelo's David; Santa Maria Novella, and the Uffizi Gallery. From Florence, guests return to London by plane.

An emotion packed journey, experiencing the art of the Italian Renaissance, the vintage atmosphere of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a stay in a number of the world's most luxurious hotels and some of the finest cuisine you'll ever enjoy.

Put it in your diary... or on your smartphone

Book your seats on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express in 2012 on www.vsoe.com

Experiences - Snow spa

If the idea of splashing around in steaming hot water in the snow-covered mountains of Italy's Val d'Aosta region takes your fancy, you're going to love Pré-Saint-Didier: a spectacular high altitude spa in which to while away the hours relaxing in the in and outdoor hydromassage pools, bathing in mineral-rich thermal water and sweating out the toxins in the alpine saunas.

Thermal benefits: health and beauty

The tiny town of Pré-Saint-Didier lies North of the confluence of the Verney torrent and the Dora Baltea river and just minutes away from the famous ski resorts of Courmayeur and La Thiule.
The town has been on the map since the times of the Ancient Romans, who first discovered the thermal springs, the 37°C waters of which have quite remarkable health-inducing proprieties. The waters score high on the beauty side of things too: just one bath and you'll be left with the most incredibly soft skin...

From the Belle Epoque to TripAdvisor

Ever since the 17th century, when the first tourists came here to "take the waters", Pré-Saint-Didier has been attracting a steady stream of visitors from all over Europe. No more so than during the late 19th century, when the spa was built and the town became one of the favorite retreats of Italy's Royal family.
Although the thermal station suffered a brief period of post war decline, in recent years it has enjoyed a new surge of popularity, so much so that TripAdvisor included the resort in its 2011 list of top European destinations.

Swimming in the snow

The spa's three outdoor thermal baths are a major attraction, especially in the winter when the surrounding gardens are carpeted with a thick layer of snow. The first two pools are linked by an aquatic path and equipped with hydromassage jets.

Those brave enough to "go Scandinavian" can run across the snow to reach the third pool, and experience the pleasures of underwater music therapy

3 floors of wellness

Recent restoration work has conserved the spa's original 19th century structure whilst allowing for the addition of a brand new, three floor wellness center realized almost entirely in local stone and wood. A chalet in the garden and a panoramic mountain refuge provide the enchanting setting for the Pré-Saint-Didier's saunas, relaxation areas and massage rooms.

Starlit aperitifs

Each Friday evening, at 19.00, the spa hosts a 100% organic aperitif, using products grown in the Grassoney valley, and high altitude wines to match. On Fridays, Saturdays and public holidays, the baths stay open until 23.00: the perfect occasion to enjoy some romantic, starlit relaxation.

Spa lovers will want to try one of the "Master of Wellbeing"'s specific treatments, such as the sensational "Sauna Cream", which combines the properties of steam and cream to leave the skin velvety soft!

Put it in your diary... (or on your smartphone)
Terme di Pré-Saint Didier
Allée des Thermes Pré-Saint-Didier (AO)
Tel. +39 0165.867272 / 0165.867273
Opening hours: Monday to Thursday: 09.30 - 21.00, Friday and Saturday: 08.30 - 23.00, Sunday: 08.30 - 21.00.

www.termedipre.it

Life's too short to queue! Purchase your entrance ticket to the spa in advance, on the Terme di Prè website!

Experiences - Lagoon ghetto

As you exit Venice's Santa Lucia railway station (traveling by train is by far the best way to reach Italy's famous lagoon city), head left and walk along the Lista di Spagna as far as Campo S.Geremia and the Guglie Bridge.

A world apart, just five minutes away from station

Cross the bridge, turn left, and enter the underpass located opposite the vaporetto stop. The entrance to the ghetto serves as symbolic boundary which visitors must cross in order to access the 'other' world, a world largely unknown to the millions of day trippers whose visit to Venice is often limited to a whirlwind tour of the Grand Canal, St Mark's Square and Rialto.

Ghetto origins

Venice's Jewish ghetto is the oldest in Europe, created in 1516 when the government of the Serenissima ordered that the city's Jewish citizens should live within a circumscribed area, to which they were to be confined from sunset until sunrise.
The designated area was in the Cannaregio district, on the site of an abandoned foundry or "geto", and it is from this that the term "ghetto" derives.Today, you can still see signs of the hinges of the gates behind which the Jews were locked away at night.

Segregation was enforced until 1797, when Napoleon conquered Venice and granted the Jewish population the right to freely live in other parts of the city

Vertical Venice

Despite its name, the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo ('the new ghetto') is, actually, the oldest part of the settlement. Over the centuries, the population grew to such an extent that the only way the Ghetto could expand further was going up! Thus a series of soaring tower houses, the precursors of the modern day skyscraper, many of which were 8 stories tall- were constructed.

Museum and synagogues: Ghetto treasures

From the piazza, you can easily reach Venice's Jewish Museum. The museum visit includes a tour of the Ghetto's synagogues. Make sure you pop into the bookshop which has an impressive collection of books concerning both the Venetian Jewish community and the city of Venice itself.

Inhabited by Jews from all over Europe, the Ghetto accommodated followers of Sephardi, Ashkenazi and Italian liturgical rituals, and constructed synagogues (or 'schools' as they were known here) accordingly. Today, the five remaining synagogues can be visited in the company of a guide.

Tours start on the hour from the Jewish Museum. In general the tour comprises three synagogues: the German, Canton and Italian synagogues, all of which are located on the top floor of three edifices in the Campo Sul Ghetto Nuovo (according to the tradition, nothing should be allowed to come between the congregation and the heavens).
Almost invisible from the outside, the interiors are incredibly ornate: with elaborate inlaid wood, sculpted panels and baroque decorative pieces. The Levantine and Spanish "schools", most probably the work of Venetian architects, are even more theatrical.

Gam-Gam and the gourmet Ghetto

No visit to Venice's Jewish Ghetto can be considered complete without having tasted some of the city's excellent kosher cuisine.

Gam-Gam, at the main entrance to the Ghetto, serves both typical Jewish specialties and Venetian-Jewish dishes such as artichoke hearts. Don't dare leave without having tried their mixed starters!

End your tour of the Ghetto on a sweet note, in the Volpe in Calle bakers shop, famous for its fruit-filled "Orecchiette di Amman", "azime dolci" doughnuts, and sugar candles

Put it in your diary...(or on your smartphone)
Venice's Jewish museum and Synagogues

Opening hours: from June 1st to September 30th: 10.00 - 19.00, from October 1st to May 31st: 10.00 - 18.00, closed on Saturday.
Tel: +39 041 715359

www.museoebraico

Experiences - A taste of Turin

The city of historic coffee houses, chocolates, agnolotti and bonet: Turin is an Italian gourmet destination par excellence, where tradition and innovation meet - on your plate and in your stomach!

Coffee break

Turin has the greatest number of historic coffee houses in the whole of Italy. These late 18th and early 19th century masterpieces, where Italy's intellectuals, philosophers and politicians regularly met (and meet) conserve all their period charm; in the form of ornate, guilt-framed mirrors, elaborate stucco work, wood paneling, and seats and benches, upholstered in the highest quality leather and velvet.

The oldest of Turin's coffee houses, which dates back to 1763 is in Piazza della Consolata. Today locals and tourists still head to "Al Bicerin" for a mug of thick, hot chocolate or a shot of "bicerin": a deliciously sweet concoction made from chocolate, coffee and cream.

Piazza San Carlo boasts two historic coffee houses: the San Carlo, inaugurated in 1822, and the Torino, which first opened its doors to the caffeine-addicted public in 1903. Although it was not until the 1950's that Mokita and Neuv Caval d'Brons opened for business, in no time at all they too were attracting an elite clientele of film stars and royals.

Palatial pleasures

For an authentically noble nibble, head to the 18th century Regia Frutteria in the Royal Palace and the Caffè Reale. The House of Savoy's collection of precious china, safely locked away in glass display cabinets, provides a suitably impressive backdrop as you sip your Caffè Savoia, a coffee, topped with cream, cocoa powder and a sprinkling of cinnamon, which is traditionally served with a "bignola" pastry or a dish of zabaione, this latter whisked up according to the original 18th century recipe.

If a caffeine and art combination appeals, stop for coffee at the Veranda di Juvarra café in the Museum of Ancient Art in Palazzo Madama.

Drink and Eataly

Coffee is not the only drink for which the capital of Piedmont is famous. It was here, back in 1786, in his bar in Piazza Castello, that Benedetto Carpano had the brilliant idea of adding a mixture of aromatic herbs and spices to his white wine and thus created Vermouth - now one of the symbols of the city.

Eataly has been created in the old Carpano factory in the Lingotto district. This is one of the largest food halls in the world. Here visitors can taste and purchase the finest of the country's gastronomic produce, as well as participate in fascinating cooking courses and food and wine orientated conferences. The restaurant Guido per Eataly-Casa Vicina provides the perfect pit-stop for those keen to experience an exciting new version of the region's traditional dishes.

A question of class

Wonderful things happen when Piedmont's aristocratic culinary traditions meet those of the region's working class: when offal is combined with sweet semolina and crunchy amaretti, and simple cheese sauces are enriched with truffle.
When in Turin, don't forget to try a plate of agnolotti, pasta parcels filled with various types of meat, or bonet, the city's famous, special-occasion dessert, made with chocolate and amaretti.

Best bites in Turin

Turin has any number of great places to eat. Check out our four favorites:

Ristorante del Cambio, Piazza Carignano 2. Serving to an elite clientele for over 250 years, this historic restaurant is famous for its elegant dining rooms and impeccable service.

Dal Saletta, Via Belfiore 37. The wooden tables and red and white checked table cloths, give the game away in this trattoria, where the dishes taste just like your (Italian) granny used to make them.

Magorabin, Corso San Maurizio 61. A great choice if you fancy a lighter, contemporary version of the region's traditional cuisine. The wine list has plenty of wow! factor too.

Combal Zero, located within the walls of Turin's Contemporary Art Museum, in Piazza Mafalda di Savoia a Rivoli, serves modern Mediterranean cuisine which looks as good as it tastes.

Chocolate factory

End your visit to Turin on a sweet note, with a visit to Guido Gobino's laboratory in via Cagliari 15/b or his shop in via Lagrange 1, and feast on the finest chocolates ever!

Experiences - Skates, sledges and sleighs

The Alpe di Siusi and the Sciliar Nature Park are an oasis of tranquility just a few kilometers away from Bolzano and all of Val Gardena's major sport and tourist attractions and a great place to have fun in the snow, with or without skis.

Skating on the frozen lake

Whether you timidly totter or professionally pirouette, ice skating is one of the most entertaining winter sports, especially outdoors, in the mountains!
The best place to go ice skating in Italy's Alpe di Siusi is Lake Fiè, at the foot of the Sciliar massif. This little lake, skirted by snow covered fir trees, stays frozen throughout the winter season. You can buy or rent skates from a number of outlets overlooking the lake.

Sledging down the mountain

Lake Fiè is the arrival point of one of the area's most beautiful tobogganing runs. The Panorama route is ideal for family fun. You'll need to be a little more experienced to make the most of the incredibly scenic Bullaccia route.

Trotting along in a horse-drawn sleigh

For the ultimate in winter romance, treat your loved-one to a trip through mountains in a horse-drawn sleigh.

Snuggle up under the thick wool blanket and get ready for a romantic ride over the snow-covered slopes. If you find the Arctic temperatures dampen your ardor, you can always opt for a closed carriage instead!

Horse drawn sleighs depart from Compaccio, just a few steps away from the station for cable cars from Castelrotto. Trips are organized between 9.00hrs and 17.00hrs, to coincide with cable car times. You'll need to book in advance if you want to take a night time excursion, complete with dinner in one of the area's typical chalet restaurants.

Strolling in snowshoes

Exploring the mountains on foot is easy when you have a pair of snowshoes strapped firmly to your feet. There are a number of excellent walking routes in the Alpe di Siusi and the Natural Park of Sciliar. One of the best routes starts in the town of Castelrotto and finishes in Rio Freddo, famous for its fantastic frozen waterfalls. From the town center, head towards the Wegmacherhof mountain lodge, close to the Gunser ski-lift. From here, take the n.6 footpath towards the town of San Valentino. From here, walk through the woods and descend towards Siusi and Bagni di Ratzes.

Where to eat
In his Baita Gostner-Schwaige a Saltria on slope 59, Franz Mulsner produces traditional mountain munchies with a creative touch, using wild herbs and meadow flowers (which he personally picks), the finest cuts of meat, and fresh seasonal fruit. Places are limited in this tiny eatery so you'll need to book in advance!

Experiences - Wellness sanctuary

Whilst the Umbrian born St Francis would, no doubt, have been horrified by the idea of his region's houses of worship one day being transformed into luxury resorts, today's well-heeled spa lovers are, needless to say, delighted! Especially so when staying at Gubbio's Park Hotel Cappuccini: one of the world's finest examples of a monastery converted into an award-winning hotel and spa.

Where luxury is a virtue

The 17th century monastery dedicated to San Nicola of Bari dominates the peaceful countryside just beyond the walls of the historic center of Gubbio.
Meticulous restoration has conserved the building's original features whilst, at the same time, allowing for the integration of the very latest in technology and state-of-the-art hotel facilities.

An ancient monastery, a modern spa

Today's resort is set in extensive gardens, home to both centuries-old trees and unique works of contemporary art.
The interior decoration of the spa, which is situated within the thick walls of the former monastery, is in soothing earthy tones, with ample use of local walnut wood and stone. The air is laced with the delicate scent of the natural essences which Aveda uses in its superb spa products.

Salus Per Aquam

Water is the key element of each and every "wellness experience". When they are not floating in the Mediterranean bath or enjoying a session in the emotional shower, guests staying at Park Hotel ai Cappuccini might easily be found bathing in the wonderfully warm waters (28°) of the indoor swimming pool. The pool opens out on to a terrace which, in the summer, provides the perfect outdoor relaxation area.

Raxul: relaxing like a Roman

The spa's signature treatment is Raxul, inspired by the thermal rituals of ancient Rome.

Just like in an authentic Roman bath, the Raxul ritual is performed in a special treatment room, on a slab of heated marble

Raxul is an exclusive exfoliating treatment which, according to the effect desired, is performed using clay, mud, salt, chocolate or grapes. The elevated temperature in the treatment room ensures that the scrub quickly dries to the skin. Steam is then used to moisten the ingredients which are subsequently rinsed away under a tropical shower, rich in natural essences.
The result is perfectly cleansed and moisturized skin', and a blissful sensation of wellbeing.

Monkey business

Ideally, a visit to the spa should conclude with a tour of the 'monastery's pharmacy, or Monasticum. Following the ancient monastic tradition of cultivating plants and aromatic herbs for medicinal purposes, this is where, today, an impressive range of natural essences, creams, infusions and oils are created.

Put it in your diary...(or on your smartphone)
Park Hotel ai Cappuccini
Via Tifernate - 06024 Gubbio (Perugia)

Experiences - Objects of desire (with a double G)

If you've got a "thing" about handbags, a passion for shoes or a foulard fixation, you're going to love this museum.

The Gucci Museo was inaugurated in 2011 to coincide with the company's 90th year in one of Italy's biggest businesses: fashion.
The museum could not have been located anywhere other than Florence; the home of the great Guccio Gucci and of the man who, in1922, founded what was soon to become an incontrovertible symbol of Italian style.

Travel, before the trolley...

The museum is located in the Maison, inside the 14th century Palazzo dei Mercanti, in Florence's historic Piazza della Signoria.
The permanent collection is distributed over three floors and recounts the various periods in the history of the Gucci brand. On the ground floor there is a section dedicated to travel, which describes how Guccio Gucci began his career as porter and how his first collections were inspired by his days working at London's Savoy Hotel. Visitors can admire suitcases, trunks and accessories created between the 1950's and 1970's for an elite international clientele, which included divas such as Liz Taylor and Liza Minnelli.

A number of glistening glass display cabinets contain bags and suitcases sporting the Maison's original diamond motif, which preceded the famous, double "G" monogram.

Scarves, bags and dresses: to die for

The first floor of the museum is dedicated to one of Gucci's most important success stories: Flora World.
Created in 1966, Gucci's Flora foulards were made famous by their greatest fan, Grace Kelly.
Accessories aficionados may well have to be dragged away from the Bag room and the dazzling display of Gucci's finest clutch, hand and shoulder bags.
Last, but not least, is the "Evening room", where Gucci's most luxurious red carpet creations are housed.
Also on the first floor, the Contemporary Art Space, features a selection of art works owned by the Pinault Foundation and an exhibition space for temporary shows and installations.

Luxury logos

The top floor of the museum houses "Logomania", a permanent exhibition detailing the origin and evolution of one of the fashion industry's best known logos.
Next to Logomania, in the Lifestyle and Sport sections, visitors can admire a 1970's Cadillac, personalized by Aldo Gucci.
Inevitably, perhaps, the visit concludes with a spending spree in the Museum shop.

Whilst frugal fashionistas, might manage to limit their purchases to a labeled case for their iphone or ipad, big spenders will have a ball splashing out in the Icon Collection, the perfect place in which to stock up on all time Gucci classics, such as a pair of "horsebit moccasins" or a "new bamboo" handbag.

Underlining Gucci's special relationship with the city, 50% of each ticket sale will be used to help finance the restoration of Florence's artistic treasures.

Put it in your diary... (or on your smart phone)

Gucci Museo
Piazza della Signoria - Firenze
Tel: +39 055 29 00 17
Opening hours: daily from 10.00 to 20.00
www.gucci.com

Experiences - Ischia trekking

For centuries one of Italy's most sought-after tourist destinations, the island of Ischia is famous the world over for its health-inducing thermal waters, luxuriant subtropical gardens, and paradisiacal beaches.

And yet there is more to Ischia than spas, parks and seaside resorts and, in fact, you only need to travel a few minutes inland to find a peaceful oasis of tiny rural villages, woods and vineyards.

The magic mountain

One of the best ways to discover this beautiful, albeit lesser known, part of Ischia is to make the trip up to the top of Monte Epomeo, a 787m high mountain of volcanic origin, the walk to the summit of which takes about an hour.

The quickest way to get to the mountain is to drive or catch the bus to the town of Serrara Fontana. From the main square, take the "military road" (strada militare) which leads to a footpath through woods of chestnut and locust trees.
At a certain stage, you'll come across the Pietra dell'acqua, a long abandoned water cistern; from here the path begins to climb upwards via a route carved out of the rocks.

Saddle up!

For an exhilarating equestrian experience, you can travel on horseback, accompanied by tour guides from the "Epomeo in Sella" riding school.
The best time to make the trip is in the late afternoon. Excursions start from the "Miscillo" souvenir shop.
Once saddled up, riders slowly make their way along a narrow bridleway, through shady oak and beech woods, before reaching the green mountain slopes.

As they make their way up to the summit, visitors travel back in time, to a not too distant era, when the islanders travelled exclusively on foot or by mule.

The trip to Monte Epomeo was one of Ischia's first real tourist attractions, and the "capo ciucciaro", the man responsible for heading the donkey-back tours, often went up and down the mountain as many as ten times a day

The route terminates at the chapel, and former hermitage, dedicated to San Nicola of Bari. Here, rumbling tummies are quickly silenced at "La Grotta", a panoramic restaurant famous for its simple island dishes such as "Coniglio all'ischitana" (Ischia's celebrated braised rabbit)

Panoramic picture postcard

Whether you arrive on foot or on horseback, from the summit of the mountain there are some of the most breathtaking views imaginable; across the whole of the Bay of Naples, Mount Vesuvius and the neighboring islands of Capri, Ponza and Procida.

The Ancient Greeks, named the mountain Epomeo, meaning "to view the panorama from high above'", and you may well be tempted to stay here long beyond sunset, to enjoy the most spectacular of starlit skies.

Itineraries - Lobster pots and castles

Perched on a high promontory, on the Gulf of Asinara, just 30kms northeast of Sassari, Castelsardo is one of the seven Sardinian Royal Cities cited in the authoritative "Borghi più Belli d'Italia" guide.
As they make their way up to the ancient citadel which the locals refer to as "Casteddu", visitors are treated to spectacular views across the sea to the Island of Asinara.

Doria Castle and museum

The town is dominated by the castle constructed by the Doria family of Genoa in the 12th century.
In the mid 15th century, Castelsardo fell to the Aragonese, and the name of the fortress changed accordingly.

Today, the castle provides the stunning venue for the town's Museum of Basketry and Wickerwork, in which visitors are introduced to one of the oldest of Mediterranean crafts

Over the centuries, Castelsardo has managed to weave its way into the history books, becoming one of the most important producers of baskets, rugs, lobster pots and "su fassoi" (fishing boats which were used to navigate the marshes near to Oristano), an impressive selection of which is displayed in the museum's nine halls.

Having completed the tour of the museum, visitors will want to make the walk along the castle ramparts from where, on clear days, the view extends across the sea as far as Corsica.

The Master of Castelsardo and Lu Cristu Nieddu

Spreading out beneath the castle, a maze of little lanes, narrow passageways and steep flights of steps finally opens out onto a small, stone-paved square, home to the 16th century Cathedral of Sant'Antonio Abate. Here, one of Sardinia's most important works of art, a retable by the Master of Castelsardo, is conserved.

Close by, in the Church of Santa Maria, visitors have the opportunity to admire the 14th century "Lu Cristu Nieddu" or Black Christ crucifix which, during the celebrations for "Lunissanti", is paraded through the streets of the town.

Rocks like elephants

Those keen to explore the area further, will want to visit one of the symbols of Castelsardo, the elephant-shaped Roccia dell'Elefante, located just outside the town of Sedini, before heading to the golden beach of Lu Bagnu.

If all this exploring leaves you feeling peckish, grab a sea view table at Restaurant Le Cisterne, a popular eatery created in what was once a water reservoir, or the legendary Restaurant Da Ugo, famous for its fabulous fish cuisine and incredible variety of appetizers

Experiences - Paestum's temple art

The Grand Tour often began right here. Indeed, from the 18th century onwards, Paestum attracted a steady stream European aristocrats and bourgeois, who, brimming with romantic fervor, began to travel the length and breadth of Italy to see the wonders of what had, all of a sudden, become the Old World.

Forming the gateway to the National Park of Cilento, and only a few kilometers south of the Amalfi Coast, Paestum is a fascinating melting pot bubbling with antiquities, rare natural beauty, and the unmistakable flavors of the Mediterranean. Here Archeology is written with a capital 'A', and is evidence of the passage of not one, not two, but three ancient civilizations in the area: the Ancient Greeks, the Lucans and the Ancient Romans.

Once beyond Eboli, travelers coming from the North soon reach the fertile Paestum Plain, traversed by the River Sele, on its way to the sea. An archeological park measuring a staggering 120 hectares, this UNESCO listed site nestles inside a 5km long perimeter wall, which was built to protect the city by the first inhabitants.

Paestum, originally known as "Poseidonia", was founded between the 7th and 6th century B.C. by the Ancient Greek colony of Sibari. Some centuries later, the town was taken over by the Lucans, an indigenous population subsequently ousted by the Ancient Romans. The Ancient Romans enlarged the city, constructing thermal baths, a forum, and an amphitheater, but were so struck by the beauty of the city's sacred area that they decided to leave it exactly as they had found it. Today, Paestum stuns visitors with its three perfectly conserved temples, the massive Doric columns of which stand out against the deep blue sky.

Two temples are particularly impressive: the temple dedicated to Hera, which the first 18th century scholars erroneously identified as a "Basilica", and the temple dedicated to Neptune, widely considered the finest surviving example of Doric architecture in the world. Taking pride of place, in the center of the archeological park, are the remains of the Roman forum built on the site of the Greek agora.

No trip to Paestum can be considered complete without having visited the National Archeological Museum, brimful with precious artifacts, from statues to ornate funereal garb. Perhaps the most important exhibit is the Diver's Tomb, a grave made of five painted slabs of limestone, including one which depicts a young man diving into the sea: a compelling example of Hellenic painting which has survived intact for well over two thousand years.

Paestum Archeological Park and National Museum
via Magna Grecia, 919
Capaccio (SA)
tel: +39 0828 811023
www.infopaestum.it

Opening hours: from 9.00 to an hour before sunset

Experiences - Capri, beaches and Piazzetta

Meeting point: the legendary Piazzetta. Breakfast: cappuccino and cornetto, at the bar. Destination: the sea.

A ritual keenly observed by locals and holidaymakers alike, each and every summer morning on the Island of Capri, a ritual which concludes with a colorful procession of bikini-clad sun worshippers making its way towards the island's little beaches, which, even before Jackie O and her jet-setting crew discovered them, had been functioning as stylish water edge "sitting rooms", where the cognoscenti relaxed and socialized, within steps of the sea.

Marina Piccola and Capri's celebrity sea stacks

"See you at Marina Piccola!". After the Piazzetta, the beach of Marina Piccola is the island's favorite rendezvous.

This is where to come to experience the thrill of swimming in the shadow of the Faraglioni rocks and to enjoy the retro-chic atmosphere pervading historic bathing establishments the likes of La Canzone del Mare, Bagni Internazionali, da Gioia and Torre Saracena, and where, if you're lucky, you'll come across stars of both the small and large screen, piling on the sun cream.

To get really close to the Faraglioni, head to da Luigi ai Faraglioni, situated at the foot of the island's spectacular sea stacks, or Fontelina, just a few meters away

Seaside specialties

Not surprisingly, on the island of Capri "sea" is synonymous with "food". There isn't a single bathing establishment which doesn't have its own restaurant, a number of which open in the evenings too.

Whilst fresh fish and seafood specialties dominate the menus in the restaurants, if all you fancy is a quick bite, the beach front kiosks and snack bars all serve a good range of salads, sandwiches, and ice-creams.

Marina Grande and the imperial baths

A sparkling blue sea, enchanting scenery, exquisite Mediterranean cuisine. An irresistible mix which characterizes all of Capri's beaches, not least that of Marina Grande, the island's largest waterfront, where bathers can soak up the sun whilst admiring a fabulous view of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius.

From Marina Grande, shuttle boats transport passengers to Palazzo a Mare, also known as Bagni di Tiberio, a small pebble and sand beach where holidaymakers swim within meters of the ruins of the ancient seaside amphitheater built by the Emperor Tiberius.

The beach can also be reached on foot, via a pretty little path through the lemon groves, which commences in Marina Grande, near the Church of San Costanzo.

Fun in the sun, in Anacapri

No tour of Capri's beaches can be considered complete without having first made the trip to Anacapri, the "other half" of the island; home to Monte Solaro, the lighthouse and the Grotta Azzurra.

Close to the legendary sea cave, hidden away amidst the rocks, you'll find Il Riccio and Gradola, bathing establishments famous for their fish restaurants and secluded water-edge solariums.

Those intent on obtaining an authentic Mediterranean tan, should head to Anacapri's Punta Carena, guarded by Capri's lighthouse, where they will be able to enjoy the sun from dawn until dusk.

Whether they decide to pay for the privilege of having their own private sun-deck at the classy Lido Faro or, like the locals, simply grab a place on the rocks close to Antonio's snack bar, visitors will want to linger until late, to catch the magnificent spectacle of the sun setting over the sea, before heading back to the Piazzetta

It's in the Piazzetta, the tiny little square in the heart of Capri, that everyone gathers after a day on the island's marvelous beaches, to savor an elegant aperitif - another of the island's longstanding summer rituals you would be foolish not to observe.

Itineraries - Spirit of Romagna

Just a few kilometers from Rimini and the vibrant seaside resorts of the Riviera Romagnola, there's a whole string of ancient villages and towns in which you can experience an authentic slice of life in Romagna.

A trip to Sant'Arcangelo di Romagna

Sant'Arcangelo di Romagna, a stunning little hilltop town is especially enchanting. The town is home to an incredible number of beautifully conserved medieval and Renaissance buildings, the most impressive of which is the Malatestiana fortress.

The town's central Piazza Ganganelli is dominated by the triumphal arch dedicated to Sant'Arcangelo's most famous citizen, Pope Clement XIV.

During the celebrations held in honor of San Martino each November, a giant pair of horns are hung from the arch. Apparently, if the horns move when you pass beneath them, they indicate betrayal. For this reason, the locals call the arch the "arco dei becchi" or "cuckolds' arch"

You'll want to spend at least half a day in this miniature "art city", if you want to visit the Collegiate church, the Paleo-Christian Church of San Michele and the Ethnographic Museum. For the best view of the town, climb up the flight of steps which leads to the crenellated Civic tower.

The printing house

If you have time, make sure you stop off at the Antica Stamperia Artigiana Marchi: an ancient printing house which, continues to produce "tele romagnole", one of the symbols of southern Romagna.

These printed cotton, linen or hemp cloths are created using ancient handmade moulds in peer wood, and colored with rust, according to the ancient technique, which has been handed down from father to son for generations
The subjects used to decorate the cloths are those typically associated with the agricultural world: sheaves of corn, cockerels, bunches of grapes.

Ever since the 1600s, the Antica Stamperia Marchi has been producing the finest printed tablecloths, curtains, lampshades and bed and bath linen

An enormous, 300 year old wood and stone mangle takes pride of place in the heart of the printing house.

No ordinary restaurant

To experience the true spirit of the place, you'll want to stop off at "La Sangiovesa".
This stunning eatery, located inside the walls of the 18th century Palazzo Nadiani, was created by the publisher Maggiani and the poet and screenwriter Tonino Guerra, as modern version of the region's ancient inns.

As they explore the labyrinth of stone walled dining rooms, complete with ancient barrel vaulted ceilings and exposed wooden beams, customers come across fascinating images and artifacts testifying to Sant'Archangelo's rural history

Between bites of tasty piadina and cassone, visitors should be sure to make their way into the bowels of the building, to access the network of underground passageways which spread out beneath the town

At the entrance to the restaurant there is a small shop in which you can purchase typical gastronomic products made in the area, whilst, next door, in "La Dolce Sangiovesa", gourmands can savor the wines, liquors and pastries for which Romagna is rightly famous.

Experiences - Selinunte: city of gods

Spellbound 18th century travelers, on the Grand Tour, referred to Selinunte as the "City of the Gods". Selinunte, the name of which derives from "sèlinon", Greek for wild parsley, is the largest archeological park in Europe. The quantity of ruins is not the only reason why visitors flock to the site; the park's position, on the hills overlooking the southwest coast of Sicily, is great part of the attraction too.

In the municipality of Castelvetrano, close to the mouth of the river Modione, Selinunte was founded by Ancient Greek colonies in the second half of the 7th century B.C. The impressive size of the temples and the other archeological remains testify to the city's past prosperity, which was the product of a fertile land and a sea rich in fish. The growing power of Selinunte resulted in conflict with its non-Hellenic neighbors, the most bellicose of which was Segesta. Selinunte was finally quashed by Segesta, with the aid of the Carthaginians, in 409 B.C.

Due to the uncertainty regarding the deities worshipped in each edifice, today the ancient temples are identified, surprisingly unimaginatively, using letters of the alphabet. Selinunte was divided into four parts, the most imposing being the Acropolis which was built on a chalky plain directly above the sea and protected by fortifications guarding both the houses of worship and the civic buildings. Today the area is dominated by the ruins of temple "C", which has become the symbol of the archeological park.

The city itself developed on the hill of Manuzza. The three temples ("E","F" and "G") were erected on the hill to the east. Temple "G" is one of the largest sacred buildings of the ancient world and its ruins cover a staggering 6000sqm. One of the columns, hoisted back to its original vertical position in the 19th century, is known locally as the "old woman's spindle" ("lu fusu di la vecchia").

Following the course of the river, visitors come to the sacred area, the so-called Malophoros Sanctuary, thought to have been dedicated to Demetra, the goddess of the harvest.

Less well known, but still more than worth visiting, the Cave di Cusa are situated just ten kilometers away from the Selinunte archaeological park. These were the quarries that supplied the great chunks of stone used to build Selinunte's temples. Some 24 centuries later, the site still conserves the appearance of an open air factory, in which the various phases of extraction are illustrated. Cylindrical blocks were extracted and transported on carts to the building site where the stone masons then perfected them.

After visiting the park, archaeology buffs can continue their journey back in time, travelling the 50kms or so to reach Segesta, a city founded by the Elymians, one of the three indigenous peoples of Sicily, and the arch rival of Selinunte. Here, on the summit of the hill, there are the remains of a 40 columned Doric temple and a theater, built in the late 3rd century B.C, which had a capacity for up to four thousand spectators. In the summer, the theater is used to stage Greek dramas, dance performances and concerts.

Parco archeologico di Selinunte
Castelvetrano (Trapani)
Tel: +39 0924 46540 / 0924 46277

Open all year from 9.00hrs to 17.00hrs