ItalyTraveller - Itineraries and Experiences

Itineraries - Rome outside the city walls

When you say "fuori le mura" (outside the city walls) to a modern-day Roman, one of the first things he'll think of is the Basilica of San Paolo Fuori le Mura. The Basilica is situated in the Eur zone of Rome, just steps away from the incredibly long Via Ostense, and is one of the city's four patriarchal basilicas (the other three being those of San Pietro or St. Peter's, Santa Maria Maggiore, and San Giovanni in Laterano). The basilica is a 19th century reconstruction, more or less faithful to the 4th century edifice which previously occupied the site of St Paul's martydom. The shimmering gold mosaic of Christ amidst the apostles which embellishes the façade, gives an indication of the richness the visitor can expect to find inside the church. The Basilica's cloisters, undamaged by the fire of 1823 which destroyed much of the church, is composed of some 150 magnificent carved columns.

The Church of Sant Agnese Fuori le Mura looks onto Via Nomentana and is almost joined to another place of worship, the Mausoleum of Santa Costanza. Both edifices have ancient origins and some of the most stunning mosaics and yet neither receive the number of visitors they deserve. The story of St Agnese, over whose tomb the church was built, is a hair raising one - quite literally! Legend has it that, under the rule of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, the 12 year old Agnese, having refused to marry the son of the Prefect Sempronius, was condemned to death. Given that, by law, virgins could not be executed, Agense was stripped naked and dragged through the streets to a brothel. At this stage in the gruesome proceedings, the young girl's hair began to grow so rapidly as to cover her entire body and all those who attempted to rape her turned blind. Agnese was eventually beheaded, a virgin martyr. The church dedicated to the saint was built in the 4th century by Costanza, daughter of the emperor Constantine, apparently cured of leprosy after having prayed on the saint's tomb. In the 7th century it was decorated with the magnificent Byzantine mosaics still visible today, mosaics which depict Saint Agnese dressed like a Byzantine Empress. The mosaics in the Mausoleum of Santa Costanza (built to house the tomb of Emperor Constantine's daughter) date back even further, to the 4th century, and represent flowers, fruits and scenes of the grape harvest.

The Church of San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura is the best known of the churches outside the city walls, often by default, in that it shares its name with one of the most fashionable areas of Rome. In the evenings the piazzas of the San Lorenzo district are filled with university students whilst, during the day, the streets brim with tourists, many of whom are headed to the house of worship dedicated to one of Christianity's most venerated martyrs, burnt to death on a gridiron in 258 A.D. The first basilica was erected by Constantine in the early 4th century, as funerary hall in proximity to the catacombs and St Lawrence's grave. In 576 the church was rebuilt in Byzantine style and in the 13th century it was significantly altered to its present appearance.

The Basilica of San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura is situated close to one of the entrances to the monumental cemetery of Verano, an immense garden dotted with tomb stones and funeral chapels, some of which are the work of important Roman and Italian architects and sculptures. Visitors who decide to take a peek inside the cemetery can expect to come across the tombs, complete with photos, of famous Italian actors such as Vittorio Gassman, Nino Manfredi, Marcello Mastroianni, Alberto Sordi, the De Filippo brothers; directors of the caliber of Roberto Rossellini, Vittorio De Sica and Luchino Visconti; writers and poets including Giuseppe Ungaretti, Alberto Moravia, and Trilussa; and statesmen of every political persuasion, from Giorgio Almirante to Palmiro Togliatti.

You don't need to be a freaky graveyard fan to realize that this Roman cemetery holds a certain appeal. The non-catholic cemetery of Testaccio might be less monumental than Verano, but is no less of a crowd-puller. Here, again, we are just steps away from one of the most vibrant parts of Rome, but the silence that envelops the small graveyard where such greats as John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley rest in eternal peace, is suitably unearthly. The cemetery appears before the visitor like a small wood of Mediterranean cypress trees, scattered with gravestones and tombs, most of which are adorned with statues. A wood of angels and crosses, guarded over by a colony of well-fed cats. Almost adjoining the cemetery, we find the Pyramid of Cestius, the imposing burial chamber built for Gaius Cestius Epulo, who made sure he had a duly magnificent final resting place before he died and was buried in it, in 12 B.C.

Experiences - Spa-ing partners

These days, even in the most frenetic of cities, spa goers can hope to find the occasional sanctuary of peace and tranquility. This is so in Milan, Italy's constantly buzzing financial capital, where you will find, right in the heart of the city's designer shopping district, the luxurious Bulgari Hotel, which has been realized by the architects Antonio Citterio & Partners.

Gold mosaics line the swimming pool, green glass gives the hammam the appearance of being encased in emeralds: the spa of the hotel has been conceived as a temple of wellness, an exclusive space in which to indulge in precious moments of professional pampering and deep relaxation. A sweet-smelling calm created by the diffusion of fragrant essential aromas envelops the massage area where guests can choose from a vast selection of traditional and oriental massages, including four hand massages performed by two therapists. The treatment menu features a series of tempting Full Day and Half Day rituals. Spa facilities include a well-equipped fitness room.

For frequent travelers keen to alleviate jet lag and the tension caused by long journeys, a special, custom-designed package has been created including hot stone massage, marine algae body envelopment, oriental head massage and pressure point eyelift. As they leave, guests are given a mini-trousse of products with which to continue their skin care routine whilst on the move. The hotel also provides a special Spa menu with a selection of wonderfully tasty, light dishes.

At Milan's Bulgari Hotel, relaxation is ensured by a charming combination of peace and nature. This combination is made possible thanks to the hotel's 4000sqm private garden which borders the Brera Botanic Garden. An enchanting urban oasis, the garden has been designed to transmit sensations of serenity and wellbeing to guests, sensations, which, thanks to the immense floor-to-ceiling windows of the hotel's Oval Bar, can be enjoyed throughout the year and whatever the weather.

The Bulgari Hotel
Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b
Milano
Tel. +39 02 8058051
www.bulgarihotels.com

Experiences - Stefano Santo's Onice

To experience a simply amazing view, which extends over the whole of the Tuscan capital is just one of many reasons for paying a visit to Florence's Villa La Vedetta. The Villa is a romantic renaissance residence which has been transformed into a five star luxury hotel, strategically positioned right next to the city's Piazzale Michelangelo. In addition to its splendid park, with Italian garden and panoramic swimming pool, Villa La Vedetta is renowned for its gourmet restaurant. The Onice restaurant has become famous in the city, and beyond, for its stylish dining rooms, faultless service, and the fabulous cuisine which, in 2004, ensured the exclusive eatery was awarded its first Michelin star.

Chef, Stefano Santo has an impressive International reputation, having worked at the Peacock Alley in Dublin, the Square Restaurant in London, but also as sous-chef for Gaetano Trovato , patron chef of the Arnolfo restaurant in Colle Valle d'Elsa; for decades considered to be one of the finest restaurants in the whole of Tuscany.

The cuisine served at the Onice Lounge & Restaurant represents a perfectly balanced mix of traditional regional produce. These products are used to prepare deliciously contemporary Tuscan dishes, which are given that extra something by the subtle addition of tastes and aromas from other culinary traditions. Providing a unique eating experience, the "Ignis, Terra and Aqua" are a triptych of exciting seasonal tasting menus featuring such delicacies as Santo's "chick pea soup, with crunchy cabbage, and coconut flavored prawn tempura", or "warm chestnut cake with honey shot, and rosemary and sea salt ice-cream".

Irresistibly innovative and yet faithful to one of Florence's greatest traditions, the menu of the Onice restaurant never fails to include the city's legendary Bistecca Fiorentina (T-bone steak served vegetables, legumes and smoked salt). The wine list pays homage to the region's centuries old wine producing tradition, devoting ample space to the great Tuscan reds.

Onice Lounge & Restaurant
Hotel Villa La Vedetta
Viale Michelangiolo, 78
Firenze
Tel. +39 055 681631
www.villalavedettahotel.com

Experiences - Winds of change

The history of Marsala wine begins with a storm. In 1773, rough sea conditions forced the wealthy Liverpudlian merchant, John Woodhouse, to dock at the port of Marsala instead that of Mazara del Vallo, to which he had been bound. It was here that he tasted the local Perpetuum wine and decided to purchase a large quantity of it to take back home with him to England. During the return journey, a gale force sea agitated the barrels to such an extent that the contents were spoiled. Not deterred, Woodhouse added alcohol to each barrel to increase the percentage of alcohol and thus better conserve the wine. This simple strategy proved to be surprisingly successful and the resulting wine was much appreciated by his countrymen, so much so that Woodhouses's Marsala soon became one of their favorite wines. Admiral Nelson was apparently a particularly devoted fan of the strong wine and used it to toast his many victories.

In 1832, Vincenzo Florio, became the first Italian producer of Marsala, and built splendid cellars in the town's tuff rock in which to produce and conserve the wine. At the time, the Florio family was one of the most influential in Sicily, operating in diverse sectors from tuna fishing and packing, to shipping, from the manufacture of ceramics to sulfur mining. Needless to say, the family's pride and joy was their Marsala, a wine produced by chance, the perfume of which evokes Sicily in every corner of the globe.

The historic Florio cellars are situated in the town of Marsala (located just a few kilometers from the city of Trapani, on the western coast of Sicily), inside a 19th century "baglio" overlooking the sea. During the tour of the cellars, visitors are taken on a journey back in time, walking beneath the wide lancet arches of halls in which, in times past,famous names such as Giuseppe Garibaldi and Tomasi di Lampedusa might easily have been found enjoying a glass of Florio's Marsala.

This is the realm of the world's most famous Marsala; a wine still made and aged in 20.000sqm of cellars which, with their cool, silent halls, made from compressed tuff or drip stone, have a solemn, almost church-like, atmosphere. The tour culminates in the visit to the Historic Enoteca created by the Florio family to house some 49.000 bottles of the company's finest vintages, including the prestigious 1939 and 1944 reserves.

Cantine Florio
Via Vincenzo Florio, 1
Marsala (Trapani)
Tel. +39 0923 781306/305
www.cantineflorio.it

Visiting hours (by appointment only)
From Monday to Friday: 10:00/11:00/15:30/16:30
Saturday: 9:30/10:30/11:00

Experiences - Cooks by chance

The Cuochepercaso (cooksbychance) cooking school is the result of Valeria Vocaturo's passion for home cooking and her desire to create a stimulating, inviting meeting point in the heart of Italian capital open to all those keen to improve their kitchen skills and express their culinary creativity. Enjoying an excellent location in the Prati district of Rome, Valeria's light-filled kitchen is a decidedly positive place, as positive as the bright orange aprons which participants are invited to wear during lessons.

Pupils are able to choose from an extensive program of courses, with lessons covering all types of cooking; from basic Italian to regional cuisine to special-occasion catering. Deeply interested in the various aspects of food culture, Valeria has founded the "La mia cucina di casa" (my home cooking) cultural association, which aims to encourage interest in the world's various culinary cultures and, at the same time, defend biodiversity and oppose the globalization of foods and flavors. On Mondays, students can attend Cuochepercaso's Gastronomic Literature courses, where interesting books of "cooking and the environment" are presented. On Saturdays, Gastronomic History courses studying the evolution of Roman-Jewish cuisine are held; these include guided tours which introduce participants to a very different Rome.

Between lessons, students compare the best cooking utensils on the market, share the addresses of useful shops, recommend restaurants, and exchange family recipes and money-saving tips. Lessons devoted to baking and the preparation of different types of bread and pizza are always popular, as are those dealing with the various cooking techniques (from steam cooking to frying), and the entertaining "food for stars" lessons, during which Valeria, aided by two astrologists, endeavors to create the dishes most suitable for each sign of the zodiac.

Cuochepercaso
Cooking school
Via Germanico, 197
Roma
Tel. +39 063216620
www.cuochepercaso.it

Experiences - Venetian green

Anybody who has the chance to view Venice from the air might be surprised to discover just how many patches of green can be seen nestling between the canals and palazzo below. Between the 1600's and 1800's the city of Venice was dotted with hundreds of little gardens. Today, the gardens of Venice form a maze within a maze. These oases are often hard to find and frequently inaccessible; to be discovered only by those with a passion for horticulture and a true spirit of adventure.

Close to the Palazzo of Cà Rezzonico, which houses the "Museum of 18th Century Venice", a splendid reconstruction of a traditional palace garden, featuring typical, geometric flowerbeds, a pergola and a Venetian well, can be seen. Another green space which gives the modern-day visitor to Venice an idea of how the city's 18th century gardens might have looked is Cà Tron, now home to Venice's University Institute of Architecture. Among the 19th century gardens, a number of still relatively unknown public parks offer a very different view of the Serenissima: the Savorgnan Garden near to the Guglie Bridge, the Groggia Garden in Cannaregio and the Royal Gardens next to St Mark's Square are all worth a visit.

A number of Venice's most beautiful gardens are now owned by the city's luxury hotels. One of these is the Rizzo Patarol garden, which is the property of the Grand Hotel dei Dogi, in the Cannaregio district. Designed as botanic garden at the start of the 18th century, Rizzo Patarol was later modified according to the romantic fashion. In 2002, the garden was carefully restored and further enhanced by the addition of numerous species of rose, clematis and hydrangea. Another hotel with an historic garden is the Hotel Cipriani, in the Giudecca district. Here plants and flowers alternate with vegetable gardens, orchards, and vineyards, the latter apparently much loved by Casanova.

The city's contemporary gardens should not be overlooked. Carlo Scarpa's garden, realized in the 1950's for the Querini Stampalia foundation (www.querinistampalia.it), merges, through an immense glass wall, into the lobby of the Foundation Palazzo in Campo Santa Maria Formosa. The Giorgio Cini Foundation's (www.cini.it) Green Theatre, on the island of San Giorgio, was inspired by classical amphitheatres but also by the theatres of Verzura and has only recently been reopened to the general public. For those eager to take a peak beyond the gates of some Venice's most secret gardens, the Wigwam Club (www.giardini-venezia.it), organizes regular visits to a host of private gardens, which are normally closed to the public.

Experiences - The truth of flesh

A visual short circuit and a stomach churning attack of vertigo: these are the possible effects of the Caravaggio-Bacon exhibition which is on show until 24 January 2010 at Rome's Galleria Borghese. Caravaggio-Bacon is a daring initiative which, with a temporal leap spanning some 400 years, compares two of the most genial and complex personalities in western art.

The coupling of the two painters has no historical reasoning, and references to Caravaggio's work are not present in those of Bacon. And yet it is surprisingly easy to create a connection between these two men, united not only by their reputation as "accursed artist" (both were tormented by the tragic nature of life, a torment which they transferred to their artwork with a genial and painful intensity), but also by their concentration on the human figure, their predilection for the expressive portrait, and their use of black to create powerful chiaroscuro effects.

The exhibition features fourteen paintings by Caravaggio, six of which are from the Galleria Borghese's permanent collection of artworks (including the "Sick Bacchus", and the "Madonna with the Serpent") and sixteen works by Bacon (two of which are triptychs). Many of the works by Bacon are on loan from London's Tate Gallery, where a monographic exhibition of the artist's work has only recently concluded. Among the paintings by the Dublin-born artist, his Head VI, the result of his studies of Velazquez's portrait of Pope Innocent X, is sure to have a lasting impact on the viewer. In fact, the true protagonist of the exhibition is the emotive response of the spectator as he or she creates his or her own personal web of connections between the two artists, and discovers how genius erases the boundaries of time.

This event is part of a ten year program featuring ten important monographic exhibitions. The program was inaugurated by the Galleria Borghese in 2006 with its exhibition of Raphael's works, and followed by those devoted to the art of Antonio Canova (2007) and of Correggio (2008). Following Caravaggio and Bacon, at yearly intervals, there will be exhibitions of works by Dosso Dossi (2010), Titian (2011), Cranach (2012), Bernini (2013), Domenichino (2014), until the final exhibition of the "Dieci Grandi Mostre" series, the "Borghese e l'Antico", which is due to show in 2015.

Caravaggio-Bacon
Galleria Borghese
Piazzale Museo Borghese 5 - Roma
www.caravaggio-bacon.it

October 2nd 2009 - January 24th 2010
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, from 9.00 to 19.00
By reservation only

Experiences - Revolutionary royal silk

Just a few kilometers from the Royal Palace of Caserta, there is a unique example of illuminist-inspired imperial Utopia. In 1759, when Charles III was crowned King of Spain, he left the rule of the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily largely in the hands of his third surviving son, Ferdinand IV. Among his many ground breaking projects, Ferdinand transformed the Palazzo del Belvedere, at the time used as Royal hunting lodge, into a factory, and the small village of San Leucio, into a full-scale industrial and social experiment. Thus, in 1778, the utopian town of "Ferdinandopoli" was created: an ideal city constructed around a Royal Silk Factory.

Never before had a king chosen to construct a manufacturing plant, complete with dwellings for the workers, so close to his personal sphere. At San Leucio, the production of silk involved what were at the time the most advanced technologies in the whole of Europe. The local people were involved in every stage of production, from the farming of the silk worms, to the spinning of the dyed thread, using machines propelled by water power, to the weaving of textiles on sophisticated cherry wood looms. The Code of Law issued in 1789 was quite revolutionary: men and women who worked in the silk factory enjoyed equal rights and their salaries were set according to merit; compulsory education was free of charge; and part of the workers earnings were deposited in a Charitable fund for the sick and elderly. The king's donation of a loom to every family, so that the art of silk weaving would continue down the generations, is another example of Ferdinand's legendary "noblesse oblige". The fame of the royal silk factory of San Leucio spread throughout the courts of Europe, the members of which were soon all eager to purchase the valuable cloth. Although Ferdinand's utopian dream was rudely interrupted in 1799 by the onset of the French Revolution, San Leucio continued to produce precious silk, and even today the flags of both the White House and Buckingham Palace are made here, in Caserta's Royal Silk Factory.

The restored Royal Silk Factory has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Visits to the site include a tour of the Royal Apartments, to admire the splendid frescoed halls and the sumptuous baths realized for Queen Maria Carolina; the Belvedere Gardens, with their view of the Royal Palace; and the Weavers' House, which offers a fascinating insight into how the average worker's home would have appeared. The Silk Museum contains a number of perfectly functioning looms and replicas of the water powered machines used to spin the thread.

Real Fabbrica della seta di San Leucio
Toll free number: 800.41.15.15
Tel. +39 0823 301817
www.realbelvedere.it

Winter opening hours: from 9.00hrs to 18.00hrs (the last visit commences at 16.30hrs)
Summer opening hours: from 9.30hrs to 18.30hrs (last visit commences at 17.00hrs)
Closed on Tuesdays

Experiences - Caffè Italia

The Italians and their coffee. An undying love affair which began back in 1615, the year in which coffee, imported from the East by the merchants of Venice, was first introduced to Europe. Venice was, in fact, the first Italian city to experience the taste of coffee and, soon became the undisputed realm of the Botteghe del Caffè. Founded in 1720 and considered to be the oldest coffee house in Europe, Venice's legendary Caffè Florian (www.caffeflorian.com), in St Mark's Square, was frequented by clients such as Goldoni and Casanova. Also located in the famous square are the Caffè Lavena (www.lavena.it), the haunt of renowned musicians, including Wagner and Liszt, and the Gran Caffè Quadri (www.quadrivenice.com), which was much loved by Lord Byron. From Venice, the fashion of drinking "boiling black water" spread to all the principal cities of Italy. Here, any number of "caffetterie" were opened to cater for an ever growing clientele comprised of high-flying politicians, writers, and philosophers, but also for ordinary business men.

Turin has a large number of these historic cafes; establishments which today still retain the atmosphere of centuries past, and of the times when they functioned as vibrant theatres of the city's political life. This is true of Al Bicerin (www.bicerin.it): with its interiors characterized by immense mirrors and lush velvet upholstery, it is as resplendent now as in the time when it was patronized by Cavour. The décor of the Caffetteria Baratti & Milano (www.barattiemilano.it) is equally impressive, featuring the finest marble, and luxurious wood paneling; reminders of former famous patrons, who included the members of Royal Family of the House of Savoy. Caffè San Carlo, hastily closed in 1837 due to its association with subversive activists, was the first Italian establishment to use gas light.

Like Turin, Trieste too has a long standing relationship with coffee and is home to both some of Italy's finest historic cafes and the world famous Illy coffee company. Illy has funded numerous initiatives promoting the culture of coffee, including the creation of a University of Coffee open to both professionals and coffee aficionados (www.unicaffe.it). When paying a visit to properties of distinctly Mittel-European charm, such as the Caffè degli Specchi (www.caffespecchi.it), the Caffè Tommaseo (www.caffetommaseo.com), and the Caffè San Marco, it is easy to see why having a coffee amongst friends in Trieste has become such an institution, enthusiastically upheld by both the young and old. Each year, during the festive season, the Vie del Caffè is organized: an event which comprises concerts and theatrical shows performed in the city's principal cafes.

Padua is another Italian city famous for its coffee culture, the maximum expression of which is the legendary Caffè Pedrocchi (www.caffepedrocchi.it); the cafe which Stendhal declared "the best in Italy". Today Caffè Pedrocchi has not only renewed its original vocation as important cultural meeting place but has also become one of the finest restaurants in the whole of the Veneto region.

In the 19th century, the cafes of Milan became stages for intense cultural and political debate. A number of important pages of Italian history were written by the men who habitually met in the Caffè Zucca (www.caffemiani.it): an elegant art nouveau style cafe beneath the arches of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Puccini, Verdi and Toscanini were all regular clients and the cafe was depicted by Boccioni in his famous Brawl in the Galleria. Another Milan institution is the Cova, in via Montenapoleone, one of the city's most exclusive lounge bars which, in the past, was a meeting place for Italian patriots. Confirming the intellectual component which often characterized the cafes of Milan, we find the recently inaugurated Caffè Letterario in Via Solferino 27, where customers are invited to flick through the books scattered on the tables; take works home on loan; or bring their own copies along with them: all material which provides the basis for, at times, quite animated discussion.

Florence is another obligatory stop on this coffee flavored Italian itinerary. The Tuscan capital's Gran Caffè Giubbe Rosse (www.giubberosse.it), named after the bright red Viennese styled uniforms worn by the waiters, had a fiery baptism shortly after opening; when it became the stage for a violent dispute between Futurists from Milan and the Florentine Vociani. Today, the cafe still maintains its original vocation as a venue for discussion and cultural exchange; hosting a number of initiatives including a weekly literary review.

For many, Rome's Caffè Greco (www.anticocaffegreco.it), just steps away from the Piazza di Spagna, is an intrinsic part of the city's eternal appeal. Here the pharmacologically active properties of coffee stimulated some of the most finely tuned brains of the last two centuries. A popular belief has it that, should a cardinal frequent the Caffè Greco he would greatly increase his chances of becoming pope, (as was the case of Count Vincenzo Gioacchino Raffaele Luigi Pecci who became Pope Leone XIII). In the Italian capital there are a number of contemporary establishments which have embraced the time honored combination of coffee and culture. One of the best examples is the Caffè Letterario (www.caffeletterarioroma.it) in the Ostiense district of Rome, a poli-functional project with areas dedicated to design, art, a cafe-library, and even a television production company.

Naples is often associated with its love of coffee. Here, coffee is a cult drink which has been celebrated in any number of songs, films, and in hilarious sketches performed by great Neapolitan comic actors such as Edoardo de Filippo and Totò. It will perhaps come as a surprise to discover that the consumption of coffee in Naples on a large scale began only in the 19th century with the arrival of the "caffettieri", itinerant sellers who roamed the streets at dawn with flasks of coffee, a basket of sugar, and coffee cups. In the same period the first "caffetterie", modeled on those already present in other Italian and European cities, were opened in the city. The Gran Caffè Gambrinus (www.caffegambrinus.com), situated right in the center of Naples and adorned with artworks by some of the greatest artists of the time, is perhaps the most famous of these coffee houses.

Itineraries - Sicilian Baroque

Cities constructed like gardens carved in stone, a grayish white stone which, as the sun sets, blushes a soft shade of pink. In the 18th century, the area of Sicily between Noto and Ragusa witnessed a veritable explosion of baroque art. This was the time when incredibly ornate churches and theatrically flamboyant palazzi completely transformed the appearance of some of Sicily's oldest cities.

This exuberant burst of Sicilian baroque might not have been a direct consequence of, but nevertheless followed immediately after, one of the most devastating natural disasters ever to have struck the island of Sicily. In 1693, South Eastern Sicily was the victim of a powerful earthquake and the provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa were among the most badly damaged. In the wake of the earthquake, a new fervor and, in particular, a new religious fervor, fuelled the area's reconstruction and it was in this period that the works of masters of Baroque architecture, such as the Siracusa-born Rosario Gagliardi, dramatically changed the townscapes of Sicily.

UNESCO World Heritage site since 2002, Noto is the capital of Sicilian Baroque. Along the main road of Corso Vittorio Emanuele there are three piazzettas, each of which is home to a magnificent baroque church: San Francesco all'Immacolata, the Monastery of Santissimo Salvatore, and the Convent of Santa Chiara. Other masterpieces of Baroque architecture await visitors in the city's Piazza Municipio, a square dominated by Noto's impressive Cathedral, with its grandiose flight of steps and two soaring bell towers. The 19th century Palazzo Vescovile and the Palazzo Landolina stand one to either side of the cathedral. On the opposite side of the piazza, there is the Palazzo Ducezio which now functions as town hall, and Gagliardi's Church of San Domenico.

From Noto we travel to Pachino, to taste the juicy Pachino IGP cherry tomatoes, the unmistakable flavor of which is the result of the rich soil in which the fruit is cultivated, the warm climate, and the salinity of the irrigation water. Close by, Portopalo di Capo Passero sits on the southernmost tip of Sicily. From here, what remains of the tuna fisheries of Capo Passero can be seen. Although most travelers come here to pass a few hours on the Capo Passero's marvelous beach and bathe in the crystal clear sea, the old "tonnara" provide a fascinating illustration of industrial archaeology and are well worth a visit.

Continuing our journey towards Ragusa, heading inland, we take time to stop at Modica. At the center of a deep valley, the town of Modica appears like a nativity scene carved in stone. The town was once divided into two rival fractions and for this reason, Modica has not one, but two cathedrals, both of which are veritable masterpieces of Sicilian Baroque. These days Modica is perhaps most famous for its Aztec chocolate, a delicacy which has been made here since the 16th century.

Our journey draws to a close in Ragusa. Ragusa is divided into the modern, 20th century city (with the occasional baroque church or palazzo), and the once abandoned historic center of Ragusa Ibla: this latter has been recently brought back to life by the advent of tourism in the area. The twisting decent to Ibla is best made on foot so as not to miss out on the many marvelous architectural details present in the old town. The Cathedral of San Giorgio is by far the most important edifice in Ibla. Work of Gagliardi, the "duomo" has the typical towered form found in the houses of worship built in the Valley of Noto. The Church of San Giuseppe is also attributed to Gagliardi and has a façade similar to that of the cathedral. Before leaving, we take a peek at the Villa Comunale or Giardino Ibleo, from where a spectacular panorama can be seen.

Itineraries - Royals and automobiles

Tourists visiting Turin, the buzzing provincial capital of Piedmont, will be spoilt for choice as far as museums are concerned. There are more than forty museums in Turin and although the majority of visitors are likely to head straight to either the city's National Film Museum, the Egyptian Museum, or the Museum in which the Holy Shroud is displayed, others will make their way to one of the lesser known, but equally fascinating, collections such as the city's Fruit Museum or Puppet Museum. Not far from the city center there are a number of luxurious royal residences, built for the Savoy dynasty and recently included in UNESCO's list of world heritage sites, many of which are also now museums.

Our tour of Turin, which, from 1861 to 1865, was the first capital of unified Italy, commences with the Museo Nazionale della Montagna "Duca degli Abruzzi". Founded in 1874 as mountain observation point, next to the church and monastery on Monte dei Cappuccini, the museum houses exhibitions concerning the mountain environment, the traditions of the Alpine community and, in particular, the history of mountaineering. The museum's Alpine observation point and viewing terrace, this latter added to the roofs of the edifice in 2005, offer a spectacular panoramic view of the Alps and the city of Turin below.

Turin's Egyptian Museum, in the Palazzo dell'Accademia delle Scienze, is the second largest in the world, after that in Cairo. The museum contains some 30.000 exhibits, which record the history and civilization of Egypt, from the Paleolithic age onwards, and includes unique pieces of art, everyday objects, and funereal garb. The museum is located half-way between the centrally placed Piazza Carlo Alberto and Piazza S.Carlo, this latter is home to the impressive Caval d'Bronz. Over the years, the name of the square has been changed on more than one occasion: in the Napoleonic era it was known as the Place Napoleon.

At the heart of the city's vibrant social life, the square is linked to the Piazza Castello by way of via Roma: the main road of the city and a popular shopping street. Via Roma was once frequented by writers and aristocrats who could be found passing away the time of day in Turin's historic cafes, located beneath the baroque arcades of the 17th century Palazzo Solaro del Borgo. Turin is famous for both its coffee culture and for the production of chocolate: a delicacy to which a soon-to-open museum at Porta Palazzo will be entirely devoted. Turin is a city of porticoes, porticoes which extend for some 18 kilometers; some 12 kilometers of which are interconnecting.

As of July 2000, one of the symbols of Turin, the imposing Mole Antonelliana, has housed the city's National Cinema Museum. The museum covers 3200 square meters and spans five floors, each one being dedicated to a different aspect of the world of film: the Archeology of Cinema, the Film Camera, the Poster Collection, Video Installations, and the Temple. Turin was the first Italian city to embrace the film industry, no doubt influenced by the Fratelli Lumiere in nearby Paris.

Turin is the undisputed capital of Italy's automobile and design industry. The Fiat Lingotto building, designed by Giacomo Mattè Trucco in 1916, is widely considered a masterpiece of industrial architecture and a symbol of Italian modernity. The architect Renzo Piano was involved in the edifice's conversion from a car manufacturing plant into a stunning 70,000sqm exhibition center, a project completed in 1995.

Itineraries - The noble beauty of Castelli Romani

Leaving the roar of the city traffic behind us, we travel along the ancient Via Appia and Via Tuscolana roads southeast of the Italian capital to reach a series of ancient towns, better known as the Castelli Romani. The "Roman Castles" are comprised of sixteen historic hill towns, immersed in a landscape of lakes and woods which, since the times of the Empire, when the nobility of Rome built some of their most sumptuous out-of-town retreats here, have been admired for their immense beauty, clean air, and pleasantly mild climate. To this very day, any number of the patrician villas which once served as summer residences for Italy's aristocrats and popes, can be seen.

Our exploration of the Castelli Romani begins in Frascati, famous for the delicious white wine produced here. Frascati is situated just moments away from the capital city and, at night, from the panoramic terrace at the entrance to the town, the lights of Rome can be clearly seen flickering in the distance. The visit to the town's 16th century Cathedral dedicated to San Pietro should not be missed. The edifice's flamboyant baroque façade was completed in the year 1700. The bell towers, one on either side of the façade, were added later. The cathedral contains a number of important works of art, and a fascinating archive of papal documents, dating from the 16th century to the present day.

Just 6km northeast of Frascati, lie the ruins of the ancient settlement of Tusculum. Despite the town's Etruscan name, Tuscolo was first built as a residential area for rich Romans. Constructed on the outer crater ring of the Alban volcano, some 610meters above sea level, the town enjoys a spectacular view of Rome, a view made all the more impressive by the presence of Tuscolo's ancient Roman acropolis, theatre, forum, and cistern.

From Tuscolo we head to Castel Gandolfo and the elegant summer residence of the Pope. Here we admire the work of the architect Gianlorenzo Bernini, to whom both the fountain in the main square and the baroque church of San Tommaso da Villanova have been attributed. The 17th century Palazzo Pontificio, erected between 1624 and 1629, was built following designs by Carlo Maderno. The town's Villa Torlonia, also known by the name of Delizia Carolina, was restored in 1817 by the architect Giuseppe Valadier and features sculptures by the Danish artist Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844). Johann Wolfgang von Goethe resided here during his second trip to Italy.

One of the ancient Roman rulers' favorite summer residences, the picturesque town of Albano Laziale, overlooking the lake with which it shares its name, conserves a number of important Imperial Roman works of architecture within its medieval walls. In the historic center, visitors can see the remains of the monumental Porta Pretoria, built between the 2nd and 3rd century B.C. The town's 2nd century "Cisternone" is still in perfect working order. This huge, five aisled underground cistern (with a capacity for some 10,000 cubic meters of water) was built to guarantee supplies of water for both Albano Laziale and much of the surrounding area. The town's Church of Santa Maria della Stella, situated on the old road to Arriccia, houses a tomb believed to be that of the legendary Horatii and Curiatii.

The gastronomic part of our tour commences in Ariccia, where the famous "porchetta di Ariccia" is made, a delicacy which can be tasted in any of the area's typical fraschette bars. The towns of Genzano and Lariano pride themselves on their award winning home-made bread, used to accompany other specialities made in the Castelli Romani, such as the Caciotta Romana, Pecorino Romano, and Canestrato cheeses. Our journey draws to a close in the picturesque lakeside town of Nemi, with a slice of the town's divine Crostata di Fragolina, a jam tart made with Nemi's wonderfully sweet, wild strawberries.

Itineraries - Gourmet heaven

Umbria, land of medieval cities and ancient culinary traditions, offers an irresistible mix of history and gastronomy. Good food and wine are things which abound in Umbria. The countryside of this, one of few land-locked regions in Italy, shimmers with the silvery leaves of its olive trees, the fruits of which are pressed so as to produce a marvellously delicate oil, more than worthy of its DOP status. The entire region, blessed with a particularly fertile terrain, is the perfect demonstration of how man and nature can coexist in perfect harmony.

In Umbria, even in those area's where the city has taken the place of the countryside, the air is filled with the aromas of the region's flavorsome peasant cuisine and highly prized gastronomic delicacies. No more so than in the region's capital, Perugia, the streets of which are lined with restaurants and wine bars, delicatessens, and chocolate shops. Chocolate is, in fact, one of the city's major attractions, bringing thousands of visitors to Perugia each year, particularly in October when it hosts the Eurochocolate exhibition, and the historic center is filled with stalls selling every type and form of chocolate imaginable. Even those who come to the city exclusively to feast on its "Bacio Perugina" chocolates, should not leave without having first visited the National Gallery of Umbria. This museum boasts a fabulous collection of Italian art, containing works dating from the 13th to 18th century. Amongst the many masterpieces, those by Pietro Vannucci, better known as Perugino, never fail to draw the attention of the crowds. Perugino was also responsible for works in the nearby Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the Collegio del Cambio, Perugia's old stock exchange.

From the Umbrian capital, we head in to the surrounding countryside, home to any number of old farmhouses and castles, now transformed in charming country hotels and exclusive period residences. We take time to take a stroll around Cannara, a pretty little medieval village, famous for its onions. The sandy soil and elevated levels of humidity present in this part of Umbria provide the perfect conditions in which to grow the town's highly prized edible bulbs. Dominating the town of Cannara, the Castle of Collemancio is an imposing edifice which proudly displays each and every one of its 800 years of history.

Vineyards occupy great part of Umbria's rolling hillside, and the grapes grown here are transformed in some of the country's finest wines. The countryside surrounding Montefalco is where the prestigious Sagrantino and Rosso di Montefalco are produced. Montefalco is worth visiting not only to taste the wine but also to tour the town which, from the heights of its panoramic position, boasts some of the most breathtaking views over the Umbrian countryside. In the ex Church of San Francesco there is a museum containing a pictorial cycle painted by Benozzo Gozzoli, a fresco of the Nativity scene by Perugino, and a collection of important archaeological findings.

From the land of Sagrantino wine to that of the "Norcino" sausage. As the name suggests, the age old profession of making spicy sausages originates in the Umbrian town of Norcia. A paradise for lovers of cold meats such as salame, coglioni di mulo, capocollo, guanciale, and porchetta; Norcia is an absolute must for pecorino fans too - irrespectively of whether they prefer their ewes cheese with or without the famous Norcia truffle. It is perhaps ironic that all these tempting delicacies are made in the town where San Benedetto was born, the saint who advocated Benedictine austerity and the rule of ora et labora.

Experiences - Lakeside Luxury

Sited on the Piedmont shores of Lake Maggiore, surrounded by gardens brimming with camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas, Hotel Villa and Palazzo Aminta Beauty & Spa has breathtaking views over the shimmering waters of Italy's second largest lake, and the islets of Borromee. This enchanting setting was much loved by the elite classes of Europe who frequented the Italian lakes in the late 1900's. Stresa, where the hotel is located, is often referred to as "the pearl of Verbano". The streets and lakeside boulevards of this city are lined with any number of elegant villas and magnificent, landscaped parks.

Hotel Villa and Palazzo Aminta, one of the most exclusive resorts on Lake Maggiore, perfectly conserves the unique atmosphere of the Belle Epoque. Guests pass the time pleasantly, gazing out over the lake from the property's water edge terrace or wandering through the rooms of a hotel which was conceived as elegant family villa. The polished marble, hand woven carpets, and chandeliers in glass from Murano, recall the magic of Venice, the gateway to the Orient, and represent the synthesis of what was the most prestigious Italian style.

The hotel's exclusive wellness center is directed by Prof. Nicola Sorrentino, a highly esteemed specialist in dietary science, hydrology, climatology and thalassotherapy, who can count many stars of the small and big screen among his clients. Spa guests are greeted in a luxurious and wonderfully peaceful environment, the interiors of which are inspired by those of India's Taj Mahal. A team of highly qualified doctors, physiotherapists, beauticians, personal trainers and massage therapists assist guests in the completion of programs aimed to restore natural balance and create sensations of lasting wellbeing. Face and body treatments, and shiatsu massages are performed, and algae, mud and fruit wraps applied, using the range of products created exclusively for Hotel Palazzo Aminta Beauty and Spa by Camellias.

The Zen Space has been designed to provide the ideal environment for meditation and deep relaxation. Those wishing to work out can use the state-of-the-art fitness room, equipped with the latest Techogym appliances as well as plasma screens and satellite link. In the spa's Grotta, bathed in soft light, guests follow a wellness path comprised of ice waterfall, aromarium, emotional showers and hydrochromotherapy.

Hotel Villa e Palazzo Aminta
Via Sempione Nord, 123
Stresa (Verbania)
Tel. +39 0323 933818
www.villa-aminta.it

Experiences - Taglienti's talent show

The history of Cuneo's Palazzo Lovera, a stunning edifice located right in the center of the town, dates back to the 1500's, when it was built as a residence for the Counts of Lovera di Maria. Today, the beautifully conserved Palazzo has been transformed into an elegant hotel with two restaurants: the Lovera restaurant, serving typical Piedmont cuisine, and the Delle Antiche Contrade, a gourmet restaurant created in an old 17th century customs station, just a few meters from the main building.

In Delle Antiche Contrade, which has recently awarded a Michelin star, and which was already a favorite haunt of connoisseurs of fine food and wine, Luigi Taglienti, one of Italy's most promising young chefs, reigns supreme. Taglienti's exquisite cuisine is created using what many might consider among the most humble of ingredients, ingredients such as offal, which Taglienti, following in the footsteps of great chefs, like of Davide Oldani and Massimiliano Alamjo, uses to great effect. Impeccable technique and superior quality ingredients are all that is required to transform products largely ignored into haute cuisine. For Taglienti, offal provides a sphere in which to test his inventiveness and arouse the curiosity of customers; this is the case with his "Italian style Fois Gras" in which, no doubt to the horreur! of his French colleagues, he uses chicken and rabbit livers instead of the traditional goose liver.

For his special Attimi Taglienti menu, entitled the measured overindulgence of a gourmand, the chef presents diners with a magnificent 9 course meal, which includes a spectacular version of Beef sweetbread, with cuttlefish ink, langoustine and lemon. Taglienti has created a number of innovative new dishes using the Carnaroli Acquerello Riserva rice, another product typical of this part of Italy, including a fabulous Risotto with lemon and menthal oyster and a wickedly moresome Creamy cod cappuccino with clams and almond ice cream. For the traditionalists, the menu also features a number of dishes straight out of Piedmont's time-honored cookery books, such as veal tripe salad and Fassona beef Ravioli.

Taking his inspiration from the traditional cuisine of the area, be it the fish dishes of Liguria or the peasant cuisine of the countryside of Piedmont, Taglienti makes no secret of his desire to recreate the authentic aromas which, until recently, used to fill the region's domestic kitchens, and to conjure up those flavors which the mothers and grandmothers of Piedmont once produced on a daily basis.

A meal at the restaurant's "tavolo di famiglia", is an experience not to be missed. The family table is situated in a secluded little dining room with view of the kitchen and the chef working over the stove of his induction oven. From this privileged viewpoint, guests gain a unique insight in to the way Taglienti puts his personal culinary philosophy in to practice.

Ristorante Delle Antiche Contrade
Via Savigliano, 11
Cuneo
Tel. +39 0171 480488
Closed Sunday evening and all day Monday
www.antichecontrade.it

Hotel Palazzo Lovera
Via Roma 37
Cuneo
Tel. +39 0171 690420
www.palazzolovera.com